There’s something about craggy vines and fermented juice that gets celebrities excited; wine is one powerful star magnet. Francis Ford Coppola, Olivia Newton-John, Cliff Richard and Lil Jon have all created their own wineries or brands—even Bob Dylan has endorsed an Italian wine. Race car czar Mario Andretti has a winery, as does Wayne Gretzky, and there are enough golfers-cum-vintners—Arnold Palmer, Greg Norman, Ernie Els and Mike Weir—for a fearless foursome. All claim wine is a passion, but whatever their true objective (glamorous hobby, vanity profession or charity), it’s a winning formula. Celebrity sells wine; just look at our homegrown heroes. After only three years of operation, three of Gretzky’s No. 99 brands are among the top 10 in sales of Ontario wines in the $14 to $17 category. Weir’s wines achieved national distribution within 30 months, a feat Barry Katzman, president of Mike Weir Wine Inc., is particularly proud of. “There are Ontario wineries that have been in business for more than 20 years and still aren’t national brands,” he says. Both Gretzky and Weir donate all their wine proceeds to foundations that help kids.

Beyond the sweet taste of altruism, are these wines any good? As a rule, celeb bottlings don’t push any boundaries. (I’ve rarely been wowed.) But they are generally respectable, safe and fair value, and they appeal to new wine drinkers by providing a point of familiarity via the celebrity name. “We are seeing a large proportion of people in our winery tasting room who are traditional beer or spirit drinkers and would never have visited a winery,” says Craig McDonald, winemaker at No. 99. For the adolescent Ontario wine industry, that’s good news.

Wayne Gretzky No. 99 2007 Cabernet Merlot
$15.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 88 POINTS
The Great One has a more expensive Estates series, as well as an even pricier $40 California bottle, but I prefer this cheaper Niag­ara wine. An aromatic powerhouse, with notes of cedar, herbs, tobacco and currants, it’s nicely balanced and concentrated with fruit, though the finish is dry, slightly sinewy and tannic. Stash a bottle away until 2012. LCBO 75689

WHITE

Andretti 2007 Chardonnay
$32.95 | Napa Valley, California | 87 points
Mario Andretti drives fast, as does this chardonnay—it’s a bit of a blur. While smooth and balanced, it lacks power, with vague toast, butter and apple notes. Sleek texture, with minerality on the finish. Vintages. LCBO 90019

Dan Aykroyd 2007 Riesling
$14.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 87 points
Aykroyd’s first riesling captures why this grape excels in Ontario: intense petrol, lemon, apple and nut aromas. Sweetness gives way to a marmalade-like acidity. LCBO 101857

Mike Weir 2007 Chardonnay
$15.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 85 POINTS
There’s not much depth or definition, but it’s well structured and balanced, with apple, butter and spice notes. Enjoy during a placid PGA tournament. Vintages. LCBO 26

Wayne Gretzky Estate Series No. 99 2007 Chardonnay
$16.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 85 points
Aromas are over-oaked, with resin and clove atop lime and green apple. Sinewy, with a smoky finish, but it has good concentration. A year or two in bottle may help. LCBO 129049

RED

Dan Aykroyd 2007 Discovery Series Cabernet Shiraz
$14.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 87 points
Aykroyd’s finest red to date won the best LCBO general list red at Niagara’s Cuvée Awards this year. The excellent 2007 vintage brought shiraz to life and gave a leg up to late‑ripening, often green cabernet sauvignon. With blackberry, pepper, herbs and chocolatey notes, this is solid yet supple enough to enjoy now. Should work to 2012. LCBO 74062

Francis Ford Coppola Presents 2007 Shiraz
$15.35 | California | 83 POINTS
I wish Coppola’s wines presented as much drama as his films: his pillow-soft, easy shiraz lacks jump. Sweet plum-cherry aromas are nicely complemented by pepper and licorice. Earthy oxidation drops the rating. It’s full, slightly gritty on the finish, with some alcohol heat. Best now to 2011. LCBO 57034

Greg Norman Estates 2006 Cabernet Merlot
$24.95 | Limestone Coast, South Australia | 88 POINTS
Once Australia’s top golfer, Norman has become a decent vintner. This has a maturing nose with blackcurrant, roasted red pepper, cedar, tea and clove spice. Medium-full bodied, dense and dry, with alcohol heat. Best 2011 to 2013. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 552075

Mike Weir 2007 Cabernet Merlot
$18.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 85 points
Vintages’ top-selling VQA red is a full-bodied, tart cab merlot. It’s not terribly dynamic, with vague raspberry, clove and cedar. Mid-weight and smooth until a tannic finish. Store for a year or two, and don’t even think about it without food (lamb dishes work well). Best 2011 to 2014. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 109

Wayne Gretzky No. 99 2007 Merlot
$15.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 87 points
Merlot is a rookie in the lineup, and it nicely catches the grape’s roundness. Look for raspberry with a meaty note in the background. There’s an invigorating freshness, and tannin is better integrated than in any Gretzky red to date. Best 2010 to 2012. LCBO 63966

Wayne Gretzky No. 99 2007 Pinot Noir
$21.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 83 points
This is solid, sour, rugged and very dry; more like a burly blueliner than a slick centre. Lots of power, with aromas of woodsmoke, meat, rhubarb and parching tannin. Very good to excellent length. Needs a few years to soften, but it will never charm. LCBO 129056