The place: In their recently opened gourmet Korean restaurant, Philadelphia-raised brothers Leeto and Leemo Han have mixed modern elements (glossy wooden tables, vintage metal chairs, industrial fixtures) with Korean artifacts and elegant chandeliers. A view of the fountain at Berczy Park adds to the charm.

The crowd: Refreshingly free of suits, there’s a small bunch of casual diners checking out what others have ordered. Once they depart, it’s just the staff and us.

The deal: The lunch menu is served only from noon to 2 p.m. and includes such Korean classics as bi bim bap ($10), modern twists like the kimchee tuna melts ($7) and the “lunch swish-swish” deal—a Korean take on shabu-shabu and the reason for our visit on this sunny Tuesday afternoon. Daily swish-swish selections include mushroom, beef and seafood ($15–$20).

The meal: Diners accustomed to the tasty dishes that traditionally accompany Korean meals at no additional cost may be surprised to pay $5 for them, but the kimchee trio—including napa cabbage, baby cucumbers and daikon radish—is worth the price. The beef swish-swish (onomatopoeically named for the sound of meat being stirred in broth) arrives in a brass hot pot resting on a portable gas-burning stove. The pot is loaded with strips of red beef, enoki and king oyster mushrooms, greens, tofu and yam noodles. Once it starts bubbling, we’re ready to dive in, dipping meaty morsels into garlicky house-made chili sauce. When only the savoury broth is left in our pots, the server refills them with more fresh, filling noodles.

The time: One hour and five minutes, but with a lunchtime adventure like this, who’s counting?

The cost: $28, including tax, tip and a glass of refreshing iced yuzu tea ($3).

Swish by Han, 38 Wellington St. E., 647-343-0268.