For best value, look to late harvest dessert wines. The fruit is picked earlier than it is for ice varieties, whose grapes are allowed to freeze on the vine. The late harvest wines lack some of the concentration and intensity of icewine, but often they are just the thing when less power is required. Good icewine makes a stronger statement: the best honeyed rieslings are the epitome of style and harmony; peach-mango vidals are bold and beautiful. The 2005s will be released later this winter, but quantities are reduced; 2004 is a fine sweet wine vintage with good acidity. All prices quoted are for half-bottles unless otherwise indicated.

Château des Charmes 2004 Late Harvest Riesling, **** 1/2, $17.95

Henry of Pelham 2005 Special Select Late Harvest Vidal, **** 1/2, $19.95

Magnotta 2004 Vidal Icewine , **** 1/2, $29.95

Inniskillin 2004 Vidal Icewine, **** 1/2, $54.95

Cave Spring 2004 Riesling Icewine, **** 1/2, $59.95

Southbrook 2004 Vidal Icewine, ****, $39.95

Reif 2004 Vidal Icewine, ****, $24.95/200 mL

Hillebrand 2004 Trius Vidal Icewine, ****, $49.95

Henry of Pelham 2004 Riesling Icewine, ****, $54.95

Colio 2004 Late Harvest Vidal ***, $11.95