In Portugal, a revolution is under way. One of the oldest, most conservative and traditional wine-producing regions in the world is now embracing new technology, allowing a gentler, cooler handling of the fruit, from crushing through fermentation and aging. The market for port, the region’s specialty, is particularly hot right now. But there’s surprising quality behind the volume. At a recent tasting, I was swept away by the lushness of Graham’s Six Grapes, a $20 ruby-style port that echoes the finesse of $75 vintage ports. Collectors always want to stash age-worthy vintage ports from the best years, which have more depth and complexity, but they are simply not worth the price, three to four times that of the current range of fruit ports (the ruby ports, reserve ports and late-bottled vintage bottlings). Nor are vintage ports as good a value as the more expensive range of 10- and 20-year-old barrel-aged wood or tawny ports. Even white ports, which I’ve always found boring, are coming alive. Only a few display the undesirable heat of their 20 per cent alcohol (port is fortified by the addition of alcohol, which stops fermentation and leaves residual sugar). Instead, there was perfectly ripened fruit, lush and creamy texture, and soft tannin—ideal for sipping on an Ontario winter evening. A crackling fire and chocolate are optional, stilton or aged cheddar highly recommended. Here are some of the best buys.

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