Susur’s Dynasty
Four Susur-ites keep the home fires burning By Brooke Lockyer
Our god of the stoves will be opening his swanky New York City venture, Shang, any day now, which means he’s spending more time there, less time here. Thankfully, some Susurian flair can still be found in this city as former protégés spice up the local foodscape with techniques and philosophies gleaned from their stints under the master. His crazy work ethic, competitive spirit and fearless approach to flavours have rubbed off.
LAURA WHITE, Xococava
Hail to the chef: Milk chocolate bark with sesame seeds and ginger.
Most Susur-like trait: Savoury sweets, but also her gleaming pigtails, a ironic twist on Susur’s trademark ponytail.
DOMINIC AMARAL, Madeline’s
Hail to the chef: Braised pork belly, based on a recipe from Susur’s mom.
Most Susur-like trait: Attention to detail. He heads to the Ontario Food Terminal
at 6 a.m. every Tuesday to personally
select produce.
BART MURAWIECKI, Inter Steer
Hail to the chef: Beef cheeks dolloped with apple horseradish and sour cream.
Most Susur-like trait: Flair for improv.
He says he felt like a kid playing with
toys in a sandbox at Susur, and he tries
to maintain that off-the-cuff creativity.
DUSTIN GALLAGHER, Grace
Hail to the chef: Corn soup with crab fritter, combined tableside to minimize sogginess.
Most Susur-like trait: Youthful ambition. Like Susur, who was 29 when he headed
up Lotus, Gallagher landed his current
gig at a tender age (26).
Photographs: White, Amaral and Murawiecki by Lisa Kannakko; Gallagher from Toronto Star
Related:
• Polygastromic Spree: The best restaurants (and what to order) for all-out extravagance
• Goodbye, Susur: After years of acclaim, Susur Lee is closing one of his eponymous restaurants on King St. W.
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