The place: Ahead of the curve in the slowly rejuvenating Regent Park, Sukhothai is the kind of stylish sit-or-go place that the neighbourhood can expect more of in the coming years. The tiny space seats only 14 but is loaded with cute details, like a chalkboard with Thai translations (“a-roy-dee,” meaning delicious, comes in particularly handy) and a menu with handwritten raves from loyal diners. The story behind the restaurant is an equally adorable tale of transcontinental love between a Canadian traveller and a Thai nurse-cum-chef.

The crowd: It’s already a neighbourhood favourite; locals young and old pop in for a quick lunch or takeout. We predict that Sukhothai will only increase in popularity as the area sheds its old skin.

The deal: Combos ranging in price from $9 to $11.50 include a salad, a main and a drink; the full lunch menu includes soups, curries and other Thai favourites.

The meal: Piping hot spring rolls ($3.50) are by the book, but the Sukhothai pad Thai, blessedly free of ketchup, sets a new standard. “Sukd’ed up,” according the menu, these noodles are a spicy, tangy take on Thailand’s prized dish. Chef Nuit Regular’s hometown twist of extra herbs adds freshness and heat to each bite. Sweet lemon grass iced tea and a cool salad of mango, carrots, cucumber and tomato calm down tingling taste buds. Spoonfuls of chicken khao soi and tom kha gai (thieved from the bowls of our tablemates) are sumptuous enough to deserve mention.

The time: 42 minutes—surprisingly fast, considering the pint-sized kitchen.

The cost: $19, with tax, lemon grass iced tea and tip.