The wine world has changed profoundly over the past decade. While the industry grappled with climate change, a glut of grapes and a recession, drinkers welcomed the return of good $10 wines, and the rise of organics, screwcaps and Internet sales. I’d wager, however, that the most important trend of the century is the rebooting of Europe’s long-lost indigenous grape varieties. The resurgence has been most dramatic in Spain. Until recently, it was known primarily for tempranillo, but now the world’s third largest wine nation is a trove of revitalized varieties. Vineyards with 50- to 100‑year-old non-irrigated vines are in the hands of a generation of internationally schooled winemakers who have learned to wring elegance from the gruff stuff of their forefathers. Using new growing methods, sorting systems and fermenting technologies, they’re aiming for a sophisticated global audience, not the local village.

Priorat, Spain’s leading “regenerated” region, is a sun-baked backwater of slate soils southwest of Barcelona. In the mid-’90s, pioneering vintners eked out tiny amounts of fiery yet refined red from the local cariñena and garnacha vines. Prices were as steep as the terraced vineyards, which yielded minuscule quantities—as little as one bottle per vine, compared to the global average of five. With stunning concentration and structure, the wine attracted impressive ratings from the critics, and the movement spread. These grape varieties are now being planted in experimental vineyards in Australia, Argentina and South Africa, creating a worldwide phenomenon that will democratize the wine universe. The reign of chardonnay, cabernet and shiraz may soon be over.

Descendientes de J. Palacios 2007 Pétalos
$23.90 | Bierzo | 91 points
Made from the newly rediscovered mencia grape by the brilliant Rioja-raised winemaker Alvaro Palacios, this dark wine has a floral nose of ripe black plum, chokecherry, licorice and green leaves. There is an amazingly swarthy density amid consider­able alcohol heat (14 per cent). It’s a chewy, massive wine that still has polish. Excellent length and great value. Vintages. LCBO 675207

White

Burgáns Albariño 2008 Rìas Baixas
$18.95 | Galicia | 90 POINTS
Made from albariño grapes on the cool northwest coast, bordering Portugal’s Vinho Verde region, this is a complex white with spice, pineapple, lemon and herbs—a good match for steamed mussels. Vintages. LCBO 945063

Marqués de Riscal 2008 Rueda
$12.25 | Rueda | 87 POINTS
The crisply acidic verdejo grape is a good economi­cal alternative to sauvignon blanc. From a small white wine appellation northwest of Madrid, Marqués de Riscal’s verdejo is slim and zesty. Aromas of lemon grass, dill and passion fruit narrow to a mineral and lime finish. It’s light bodied yet quenching and bright. Excellent length. LCBO 36822

Red

Atalaya 2007 Almansa
$21.95 | Castilla–La Mancha | 90 points
A high-altitude blend of garnacha, monastrell and tintorera from Castilla–La Mancha, Ata­laya has a nose of blueberry, blackberry and licorice that’s bold enough to be Australian. While it’s Aussie up front, it has a typical Spanish mineral finish. Vintages. LCBO 132605

Castano la Casona 2007 Monastrell
$8.90 | Yecla | 87 points
Sourced from non-irrigated 40- to 60-year-old monastrell vines, which produce great concentration, the full-bodied Castano la Casona offers amazing value. It’s packed with notes of plum and blueberry, with background pepper. Southern Spanish reds are often too hot, but this toes the line with elegance that’s rare for under $10. LCBO 143743

Castillo de Monséran 2008 Garnacha
$8.95 | Cariñena | 87 POINTS
Named the number one “Killer Value” at the 2009 International Value Wine Awards, this is a delicious un-oaked fruit bomb from old vines in the northern region of Aragon. Drenched in garnacha flavours of strawberry-rhubarb pie, red licorice and pepper, it’s plush, with just enough tannic grip. LCBO 73395

Celler de Capçanes 2007 Mas Donís Barrica Old Vines
$16.95 | Montsant | 91 points
The blend of old vine garnacha (85 per cent) and new vine syrah creates a wine with both verve and depth. Medium weight, dense and juicy, with some heat, it shows ripe cassis, rhubarb, licorice and fresh tarragon, with background oakiness. Vintages. LCBO 705863

Clos Figueras 2004 Font de la Figuera
$39 | Priorat | 91 points
Though it’s made from younger vines, which produce less concentrated (thus less expensive) fruit, this is classic Priorat: notes of violet, cherry and pepper. It’s mid-weight, with terrific acid-tannin tension. Now to 2015. vintagesshoponline.com. LCBO 108662

Puerta Bonita 2007 G5
$19.95 | Vinos de Madrid | 90 points
This intriguing garnacha is purported to be from 120-year-old vines from a new appellation south of the capital. It’s ripe, with notes of prune, cherry, licorice, cola and wood. It catches the richness of Aussie blends of grenache-syrah-mourvèdre (GSMs) with a drier Euro finish. Vintages. LCBO 132266

Torres 2006 Salmos
$32.95 | Priorat | 90 points
The most modern company of the northeast has stepped into the trendy Priorat region, producing good value wines where $100 bottles are the norm. This is an exuberantly fruity example, with blueberry-blackberry, licorice and earth on the nose (a result of blending syrah and cabernet with cariñena). The mid-palate is fleshy, but taut minerality and gritty tannin hold it in perfect balance. Best 2012 to 2014. Vintages. LCBO 60772