Spanish Bull
Tapas are popping up on menus everywhere. Or are they? by David Sax By David Sax
In contemporary Toronto, “tapas” apparently means any small dish, regardless of its culinary dislocation from anything remotely Iberian. Having morphed from Andalusian bar snacks, tapas are to today’s restaurant scene what fusion was in the ’90s—a profitable and trendy buzzword. And it’s obvious why: they give owners an excuse to charge more for skimpier plates—the flavourful and artfully rendered dishes are often just big enough to entice the taste buds, leaving the belly high and dry. Here, our selective guide to the uses and abuses of the word.
You get the real deal at authentic Catalan tapas bar Torito (276 Augusta Ave., 647-436-5874). A credible selection of small plates—from chestnut and chorizo soup to citrus-infused baccala and piquillo peppers—is augmented by a list of 20 sherries.
For the condo crowd, Nyood (1096 Queen St. W., 416-466-1888) has diminutive portions of North African–Mediterranean dishes, like a teensy Arctic char ceviche with julienne pear and apple, gorgonzola, walnuts and chili ($13).
With rustic tables, flickering candles and EZ Rock-esque music, Urbano Italian-Style Tapas Parlour (942 Queen St. W., 416-532‑5088) straddles the line between boho romance and Queen West opportunism: it serves wee Italian plates (fettuccine, tomato salad) under such kitschy names as Tapateasers, Pastapas and Dessertapas.
Along with standard-sized vindaloos and lamb chops, Waterfalls Indian Tapas Bar and Grill (303 Augusta Ave., 416-927-9666) offers heaping bowls of mussels ($8) and dhal with naan ($9) and calls them tapas.
Tom Thai’s Foxley (207 Ossington Ave., 416-534-8520) has revitalized Ossington with Asian-Latin tapas-sized dim sum, like crisp lamb and duck prosciutto dumplings (five for $7).
Serving fries, Greek salad and bruschetta, the Annex bar Insomnia (563 Bloor St. W., 416-588-3907) has simply replaced the word appetizers with tapas.
Photographs by Jenna Marie Wakani
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