Soul Food
The call for comfort food can arrive at any time–good day or bad. The dishes at these spots have all the elements of a mother’s hug
Big cheese: Shanghai Cowgirl
Image credit: Edward Pond
California Sandwiches
First, there’s the anticipation of ordering—“one medium-hot veal sandwich with cheese” ($7.95)—then the tension builds while you wait for your number, and finally, there’s the joy of unwrapping the foil and releasing the blast of aromatic steam. The only problem is that half a sandwich seems like not quite enough, while a whole one is way too much of a good thing. 244 Claremont St., 416-603-3317.
Jumbo Empanadas
Just the look of one of those blistered little empanada pockets ($3.99) is enough to get the mouth watering. Inside, a sweet, savoury and juicy combination of ground beef, chopped hard-boiled eggs, olives and even a raisin or two. Combine it with the spicy, acidic Chilean salsa, and you’ve got the culinary equivalent of a warm
blanket. 245 Augusta Ave., 416-977-0056.
Miss Saigon
A steaming bowl of pho ($6.75), its rich, aromatic broth chock full of noodles and green onions floating any combination of rare beef, meatballs, tripe or chicken, is hard to beat. A side bowl of chilies, purple basil and bean sprouts add a fun, do-it-yourself element to the meal. Soothing and comforting, and better than Aspirin after a hard night out. 394 Spadina Ave., 416-597-9333.
Scaramouche
Coconut cream pie ($12), a short-order staple in a temple of gastronomy, is one of Scaramouche’s signature desserts. They improve on the classic by dressing it in white chocolate shavings and surrounding it with a dark chocolate sauce.1 Benvenuto Pl., 416-961-8011.
Shanghai Cowgirl
The grilled cheese here ups the ante with a triple-decker version (from $6.55) that can include real cheddar or Swiss cheese—but we all know true comfort is in the processed variety, just like Mom used to make. 538 Queen St. W., 416-203-6623.
Truffles
Probably best not to think too hard about how much cream and butter goes into the spaghettini with truffle foam ($20), but the first whiff of that sexy truffle aroma cradled in thickened cream banishes all guilt. As rich and decadent as cashmere socks. Four Seasons Hotel, 21 Avenue Rd, 416-928-7331.
TEST Originally published April 2007
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Soul Food
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