RoundUp
April 2008
Some Like It Hot
A wave of immigrants from Chile to Mexico is landing in our midst. Here, the signature dishes of five Latin countries, and where to find them in Toronto By Denise Balkissoon
Roughly 125,000 Central and South Americans live in Toronto, and that number is about to get a lot bigger. As the U.S. border tightens, immigrants are skipping over Bush country and settling here. Lucky for us, they’ve brought along vibrant cuisines full of bright, sunny flavours. Don’t know your empanadas from your pupusas? Here, an amateur’s guide to eating Latin.
MEXICAN
Local fix: the brightly coloured El Rincón Mexicano (653 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-656‑1059), where the menu highlights regional specialties.
Don’t miss: tacos ahogados. The coriander-scented comfort food from the southern province of Guerrero features tangy chicken broth served with three freshly fried rolled chicken or beef tacos for dipping. $9.95.
SALVADOREAN
Local fix: alcohol-free and no-nonsense, the
fluorescent-lit El Sabor de El Salvador (958 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-651-1475) serves up Toronto’s best pupusas. The thick corn griddle cakes are a national treasure.
Don’t miss: pupusa de loroco ($2.50), stuffed with loroco flower. And the classic chicharron, queso y frijoles ($2.25)—pork crackling, cheese and beans—is spicy, savoury perfection.
CHILEAN
Local fix: Kensington snack stalwart Jumbo Empanadas (245 Augusta Ave., 416-977‑0056).
Don’t miss: humitas ($4)—mashed corn, basil and onion wrapped in corn leaves and steamed. Of the rabidly popular empanadas, choose the beef ($4), stuffed with bits of boiled egg, olives and plump raisins.
NICARAGUAN
Local fix: unassuming decor belies the truly authentic cooking at La Bella Managua (872 Bloor St. W., 416-913-4227).
Don’t miss: zingy citrus- and chili-spiked shrimp ceviche ($8). Slices of deep-fried plantain are hot, salty and perfectly crisp.
ARGENTINE
Local fix: the 19-year-old Sky Ranch Restaurant (2473 Dufferin St., 416-787‑0491), where live Latin American bands pack the floor with revellers every Saturday.
Don’t miss: lomo al champiñón ($25), a
perfectly grilled 12-ounce steak topped with
a rich mushroom–red wine sauce.
