Smart Cookies
Chez Victor caters to our inner child By Ivy Knight
Cookies have a magical ability to transport you back to childhood. If they’re homemade and still warm from the oven, you might as well cue the chirping birds and dancing rainbows. Toronto restaurants have figured out that the way to diners’ hearts is through their dopamine levels, which may explain the appearance of cookies on dessert menus from Grace to Pangaea. At Chez Victor, pastry chef Margaret Ngara is whipping up a trio of nostalgic treats: triple- chocolate macadamia nut, citrus butter, and oatmeal-raisin. We assembled a crackerjack panel of experts to offer tasting notes. Cookie plate, $5. Chez Victor, 30 Mercer St., 416-883-3431.
OATMEAL: “I like the raisins. I could eat three more. Sometimes my sister over-dunks her cookies and freaks out because her milk gets dirty. My brother and I try to show her the proper way to do it.”—Cecilia, age eight, daughter of Canoe’s executive chef, Anthony Walsh
CITRUS: “Lemon is sour when it’s by itself, but when it’s in things with sugar it’s really good. These are lemony, good and tasty. If in the future there were no cookies I’d be ruined.”—Spencer, age nine, son of Patrick McMurray, Starfish owner and champion oyster shucker
CHOCOLATE: “I like the chocolate cookie, of course, duh…because it has chocolate in it. Don’t have these before bed, though, because you’ll be up for a really long time. It’s happened to me a couple of times.”—Noah, age eight, son of Daniel Wahlen, head waiter at the Drake
Photograph by Christopher Stevenson
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