By eight o’clock on a Saturday night, it’s standing room only at Local Kitchen, the current culinary darling of Parkdale. Some come for the bacon-washed bourbon, others for the charcuterie sampler. But most are here for the sensational smoked potato gnocchi—a vegetarian bacon fantasy. Since commercial smokers aren’t exactly common household appliances, we sweet-talked chef Fabio Bondi into giving step-by-step instructions for a heavenly smokeless version. This is unadulterated carb comfort at its best.

Ingredients
4 large russet or baking potatoes
4 egg yolks
1 ¹⁄³ cups all-purpose flour
1 ¹⁄³ cups finely grated parmigiano-reggiano
Salt
½ bunch rapini, trimmed
2 tbsp olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
2 cups coarsely grated taleggio cheese
Black pepper to taste

Directions
1. Bake potatoes at 400° F for 1 to 1 ½ hours or until tender.
2. Cut potatoes in half and scoop out insides, then pass potato through a potato ricer onto a large baking sheet lined with a kitchen towel. Cover loosely with another towel and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.
3. Turn potato out onto clean work surface, mound up, and make a well in centre. Drop egg yolks into well and add flour and parmigiano-reggiano. Mix by hand to form a soft, smooth dough, kneading just until dough no longer sticks to your fingers. (You may need extra flour.)
4. Shape dough into a 2-inch-thick log. Cut log into 2-inch-long pieces. Roll each piece with floured palms to form ¾-inch-thick sausages. Cut sausages into ¾-inch pieces to form gnocchi.
5. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Chop rapini into 1-inch pieces, cutting any thick stalks in half lengthwise (you should have about 8 cups).
6. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add rapini and sauté for about 2 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for 30 seconds. Add a ladleful of the boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes or until rapini is tender-crisp and liquid has evaporated. Tip into a large, warm serving bowl and keep warm.
7. Add half the gnocchi to boiling water and cook until they float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and add to rapini. Repeat with remaining gnocchi.
8. Add taleggio and a ladleful of cooking water to gnocchi and toss gently until creamy. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Makes 4 to 6 servings