Revival of the Fittest
Five classic dishes are making a comeback By Eric Vellend
Exhausted by fusion, foam and dry-ice pyrotechnics, we’re craving simpler fare again. In response, chefs have been dusting off old cookbooks and resurrecting the classics. Some add a playful twist; others keep it old school. A primer on dishes that have survived the test of time.
Beef Wellington
Then: This enduring marriage of beef
and pastry was created in honour of Arthur Wellesley, the First Duke of Wellington,
after he trounced Napoleon at Waterloo.
Now: Chef Daniel Schick deconstructs the dish, topping a filet mignon with seared foie gras and surrounding it with a sublime moat of duxelles. $36. Victoria’s, Méridien King Edward, 37 King St. E., 416-863-4125.
Crêpes Suzette
Then: In 1897, French actress Suzanne “Suzette” Reichenburg landed a part in which she had to
eat a dramatic dessert. This is what famed restaurateur Monsieur Joseph concocted for her.
Now: At Thuet, it’s prepared tableside over
a Mauviel copper burner. Bathed and flambéed with Grand Marnier, the crêpes are topped
with a citrusy reduction and a scoop of vanilla. $40 for two. 609 King St. W., 416-603-2777.
Baked Alaska
Then: When Alaska joined the U.S. in 1867, Delmonico’s—the restaurant in New York—
created this confection to celebrate.
Now: At The Fifth, a bombe of almond sponge, vanilla ice cream and whipped egg whites spends a moment in the oven before being rushed to table, doused with cognac and flambéed with a sensational “whoosh!” $19. 225 Richmond St. W., 416-979-3005.
Fondue
Then: Dating back to the 1700s, this Alpine staple was originally a means of using up stale bread and dry cheese in the dead of winter.
Now: The version at Far Niente is decidedly more decadent. Toasted focaccia cubes and juicy chunks of pear are dunked into a thick emulsion of white wine and pungent fontina, swirled
with earthy truffle honey and roasted hazelnuts. $21 for two. 187 Bay St., 416-214-9922.
Caesar Salad
Then: Caesar Cardini first whipped up his famed salad at his Tijuana hotel in 1924.
Now: A tableside visit from waiter Nelson Salazar, his custom-built cart in tow, puts the fun back into these clichéd greens. Made with just a fork, a wooden bowl and a quick wrist, it’s a faithful version, elevated by smoky bacon lardons and Spanish white anchovies. $18. Jacobs & Co., 12 Brant St., 416-366-0200.
Photographs by Robert Gagnon
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