A more sensible family might not have gambled on red grapes the way Bobbi Speck’s brood did back in 1984. In that chardonnay-crazed era, Ontarians wanted almost nothing but white, and the nascent Niagara region was thought to be incapable of producing big reds. But Bobbi had visions of amarone dancing in her head; to appease her, husband Paul and sons Paul Jr., Daniel and Matthew decided to plant 10 acres of baco noir. Twenty-odd years later, baco is the signature wine at Henry of Pelham, and it’s persuading fans of Australian shiraz and Rhône syrahs to finally give Ontario a try. Daniel Speck recently poured a nine-vintage vertical of baco noir reserve at the Breadalbane Inn in Fergus, matching five of them with an opulent six-course dinner prepared by chef and innkeeper Peter Egger—including Egger’s perfect-for-pairing miniature veal burger with shiitake mushrooms. The vertical proved that in the right hands, baco noir—a wine known for horsiness—can achieve girth, longevity and finesse. And it showed that Ontario vintners like the Specks have begun to build a modern Niagara heritage. Bobbi Speck credits son Matthew with babying those baco vines and keeping crop levels down to concentrate the fruit’s flavour. But that first, prescient decision? “I take full credit,” she says with a laugh.