Raw Deal
The perfect antidote to a heat wave: char ceviche By Eric Vellend
Image credit: Daniel Shipp
Foxley’s impossibly svelte chef Tom Thai has a knack for creating dishes that satisfy the soul—and allow you to fit into your short shorts the next day. Capitalizing on his Japanese training and Chinese-Vietnamese background, he lights up Peruvian ceviche with some pan-Asian fireworks. Thick slices of raw Arctic char—the catch of the moment for ethically tortured piscivores—are dressed in olive oil and yuzu juice à la minute to maximize silky sweetness. Sesame seeds, saw-leaf coriander and bright red smears of homemade hot sauce add layers of flavour, and a juicy salad of apple and ginger jolts the palate. There are five excellent ceviches on Thai’s summer menu, but this one is the biggest dazzler. $15.
Foxley, 207 Ossington Ave. (at Rolyat St.), 416-534-8520
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