Quest
Spuds in the Alley
A diner lover's guide to home fries By Bruce Geddes
Image credit: Finn O'Hara
Back when a diner was really a diner and brunch was more a meal than a lifestyle, home fries came to the plate honestly, culled from the previous night’s leftovers—potatoes boiled but never mashed, or baked till their skins fell off. The morning cook’s first duty was to cut them to bite size, toss them with butter and diced onion and shove them to a corner of the grill. There they would revive and develop a crispy crust, waiting to be portioned
onto plates next to fried eggs and bacon, sausage or ham. Then, as with many dishes derived from cast-offs (think shepherd’s pie), a new generation of chefs found ways to make home fries their own.
Edward Levesque's Kitchen, 1290 Queen St. E., 416-465-3600
Cleaving to tradition, home fries here are first parboiled; doused in oil, salt, pepper and paprika; and then fried on the flat-top grill. Their flavour comes from the crusty bits and a generous sprinkling of earthy herbs: rosemary, thyme, marjoram, parsley, chives and oregano.
Xacutti, 503 College St., 416-323-3957
With its inventive Indian approach, Xacutti produces a unique and simple fry. Potatoes are cut into something between slices and chunks, creating more surface area than usual for a mélange of traditional Indian spices. With the mild morning flavours of eggs, ham, salmon and the like, these are often the punchiest part of the restaurant’s Sunday-only brunch.
Mitzi’s, 100 Sorauren Ave., 416-588-1234
Showing a similar penchant for boldness, Mitzi’s potatoes are roasted and lightly tossed in a sauce that dominates breakfasts of already strong flavours. Asked for clues as to what gives these tots their taste, the staff clam up, but an educated guess would include dried chili powder and, given the degree of caramelization, a dollop or two of ketchup.
Insomnia, 563 Bloor St. W., 416-588-3907
In an approach that goes a step or two beyond Mitzi’s, a sweet barbecue sauce smothers deep-fried nuggets here, a home fries departure with a more conservative appeal. A tad gloppy, but hey, no ketchup needed!
Edward Levesque's Kitchen, 1290 Queen St. E., 416-465-3600
Cleaving to tradition, home fries here are first parboiled; doused in oil, salt, pepper and paprika; and then fried on the flat-top grill. Their flavour comes from the crusty bits and a generous sprinkling of earthy herbs: rosemary, thyme, marjoram, parsley, chives and oregano.
Xacutti, 503 College St., 416-323-3957
With its inventive Indian approach, Xacutti produces a unique and simple fry. Potatoes are cut into something between slices and chunks, creating more surface area than usual for a mélange of traditional Indian spices. With the mild morning flavours of eggs, ham, salmon and the like, these are often the punchiest part of the restaurant’s Sunday-only brunch.
Mitzi’s, 100 Sorauren Ave., 416-588-1234
Showing a similar penchant for boldness, Mitzi’s potatoes are roasted and lightly tossed in a sauce that dominates breakfasts of already strong flavours. Asked for clues as to what gives these tots their taste, the staff clam up, but an educated guess would include dried chili powder and, given the degree of caramelization, a dollop or two of ketchup.
Insomnia, 563 Bloor St. W., 416-588-3907
In an approach that goes a step or two beyond Mitzi’s, a sweet barbecue sauce smothers deep-fried nuggets here, a home fries departure with a more conservative appeal. A tad gloppy, but hey, no ketchup needed!
TEST Originally published April 2006
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