Comfort foods don’t have to be only those we knew as kids. Some people get into their 30s before tasting bulgogi (hard g’s, as in perogi, but transliterated a few different ways). In this simple classic—literally fire (bul) meat (gogi)—thin slices of beef are marinated in soy sauce, sometimes rice wine, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, green onions and sesame seeds, then grilled. The best achieve an exquisite balance of sweet, salty and savoury that even novices recognize as down-home comfort.

The Place Thumbs-up Fast Food, 615 Bloor St. W., 416-536-4106
The Name Bulgogi, $7
The Setting Bare bones: open kitchen, fluorescent tubes. A print of Renoir's Dance at le Moulin de la Galette. Mais naturellement
Accompaniments and Sides Onion, green onion, carrots, green pepper. Pan chan (sides): picked daikon, kimchee
Bottom Line Sweet with a watery sauce that dilutes the flavours and beef that's a bit tough

The Place Korean Village, 628 Bloor St. W., 416-536-0290
The Name Bul Go Ki, $14.95 per person
The Setting Grand trad: rice paper lamps, dark wood, long sushi bar. Beef cooked tableside and served with a parade of accompaniments
Accompaniments and Sides Enoki and button mushrooms, green onions. Pan chan: more than a dozen—candied potatoes, pickled seaweed, hot bean paste
Bottom Line Theatrical distractions make it easy to overlook the somewhat thin flavour of the beef

The Place San, 676 Queen St. W., 416-214-9429
The Name Marinated Sirloin Bulgogi, $6.95, dinner $10.95
The Setting Hipster: sleek, with contempo art, alternative music. Served dosherak (bento box) style or on a metal plate
Accompaniments and Sides Onion, mushroom, broccoli, carrot. Pan chan: changes seasonally; constants are fiery kimchee, pickled daikon, soy beans
Bottom Line A stylish location for sampling mild, satisfying but ultimately safe bulgogi

The Place Butler's Pantry, 591 Markham St., 416-535-9868, plus two other locations
The Name Bul Go Gi, $8.70
The Setting Gone west: spare decor but with banquettes and chairs upholstered in swirls of colour generally associated with Holiday Inns
Accompaniments and Sides Onions, fresh mushrooms. Pan chan: none, but it comes with a dressing reminiscent of barbecue sauce
Bottom Line Surprise star of the bunch; intense flavour, the beef stickily carmelized. More beef would make it better