Quest
November 2006
Holy Crepe
In search of autumn’s most delectable wrap By Shaun Smith
Know when to fold‘em: Art Square Café’s superlative crêpe
Image credit: Angus Fergusson
A superbly prepared chocolate crêpe served with a glass of wine is one of gastronomy’s most gratifying treats. Yet the pancake’s sophisticated French cousin is fickle. A good crêpe chef must be fearless. Too little time on the crêpière leaves a floury taste and doughy texture, while too much burns. For golden, crispy texture and dimensions of buttery, toasted flavour, precision is key. And the filling needs to be fl awless, too. The envelopes, please.
| The Place | The Goods | Outer Limits | Inner Strength | The Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Café Crêpe 246 Queen St. W., 416-260-1611 |
Dark chocolate and strawberry, $6.75 | Rubbery, thick and tough, it arrives only just warm from reheating | Plump, sweet strawberries macerated in Napoleon brandy; fine-quality dark chocolate | A serviceable but soulless offering |
| La Crêperie 55 Mill St., Tank House Lane, 416-203-1590 |
Chocolate fudge brownie with chocolate shavings, $7 | Nicely thin, yet undercooked and chewy; tastes of raw flour | Sliced fudge brownie smothered with decadent melted Canadian-made Callebaut chocolate | A little more time on the heat would have created chocolate heaven |
| Crêpe It Up 507 1 Church St., 416-916-3558 |
Chocolatehazelnut and strawberry, $3.75 | Thin as gauze; firm, golden and crisp; toasted flavour | Choc-hazelnut is a classic, but the strawberries have a spooky chemical aftertaste | A fantastic crêpe, worthy of another try—but with a different filling |
| Art Square Café 334 Dundas St. W., 416-595-5222 |
Organic dark chocolate, brown sugar and cocoa, $5.50 | Thin and golden; buttery flavour | Fair-trade Camino chocolate with 71 per cent cocoa—so rich it’s almost savoury | Move over, sweet tooth: this exceptional crêpe is for the cocoa connoisseur |
