Quest
May 2007
Green Party
Where to have your kale and eat it, too By Chris Johns
Kale and hearty: Cajú's jumped-up the caldo verde
“Caldo verde” translates simply as “green soup,” which makes it sound like some kind of Dr. Seuss invention. But it is, in fact, a national dish of Portugal. A simple, satisfying combination of puréed potatoes, greens (usually kale), chorizo and stock, the dish is equally at home in elegant dining establishments and casual neighbourhood joints, and it most often adds up to a whole that is greater than the sum of its parts.
| The Place | The Dish | The Look | The Taste | The Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Amadeu’s 182 Augusta Ave., 416-591-1245 |
Green collard soup, $3.50 | A wee bowl holding a creamy, almost gelatinous broth, with a fine chiffonade on the collards. One piece of chorizo. No accompaniments | Totally smooth texture. The collards’ sweet, floral, citrusy flavour is offset by super-smoky chorizo | This honest and warming version would make any avó proud |
| Cajú 922 Queen St. W., 416-532-2550 |
Caldo verde, $8 | Collards and potatoes are puréed, lending a soothing, deep green colour. Corn bread and pão de queijo, like Brazilian gougères, accompany | The thick, smooth purée is redolent of roasted garlic and malagueta peppers | It may be vegetarian, but even carnivores will love this one: smart seasoning more than compensates for absent chorizo |
| Chiado 864 College St., 416-538-1910 |
An off-the-menu specialty made to order, $10 | Arrives in a bone china bowl, accompanied by two kinds of bread, olive oil and balsamic. Two pieces of chorizo are visible and a Pollock of olive oil tops it all | Smooth and rich, with well integrated flavours. The chorizo has mild heat and salt but good smokiness | Subtle and complex, enlivened by its elegant surroundings |
| Sintra 588 College St., 416-533-1106 |
Caldo verde soup, $5.95 | The broth is thinner and the kale roughly chopped, giving the dish a more rustic look. Two pieces of chorizo. Accompaniments: bread and butter | Bright, green flavours offset by salty chorizo. The lighter broth accentuates the richness of oil floating on top | Authentic and understated, this one is also just plain good |
