Spanish food has become as much about foam and hot gelatin as about paella and tortilla de patatas. Gazpacho, however, manages to withstand the fashion’s vicissitudes, lending itself to both modern, avant-garde interpretations and classic, traditional versions. No surprise. An American expatriate once put together an entire cookbook of nothing but gazpacho recipes she learned from Spanish home cooks. Each chef who approaches the dish, here or there, brings to it an individual sensibility. Here are some local favourites.

The Place: Live Organic Food Bar
The Dish: Watermelon-sweet pepper gazpacho, $6
The Presentation: In a martini glass garnished with pea shoots
The Texture: Chunkier than salsa, almost a chopped salad
Overall Impression: Outstanding, if a stretch to call it gazpacho. A fine balance of sweet and savoury, with lots of interest and complexity. Could use a little more heat

The Place: Niagara Street Café, 169 Niagara St., 416-703-4222
The Dish: Gazpacho Andaluz, $6
The Presentation: In a drinking glass, drizzled with olive oil, cuke seed garnish, croutons on the side
The Texture: Smooth and so well emulsified that the cuke seeds add distinct texture
Overall Impression: Great balance of flavours from the red pepper and blanched garlic, with acid notes from sherry vinegar

The Place: Summerhill Market
The Dish: Gazpacho soup, $7.99
The Presentation: To go, in a clear plastic one-litre container
The Texture: Slightly granular, about two blender buzzes shy of a purée
Overall Impression: The ideal picnic gazpacho: bright, fresh flavours with maybe a hint of garlic

The Place: Torito
The Dish: Gazpacho, $7
The Presentation: In a shallow soup bowl, with toasted bread crumbs, basil and shrimp
The Texture: Puréed tomato smooth
Overall Impression: Superb. Simple, authentic and expertly balanced array of herbaceous, acidic and spicy flavours