Quest

July 2006

Chicken Run

On the hunt for the city's best wings By Amy Rosen

Wing nuts flock to Duff's for authentic New York taste Wing nuts flock to Duff's for authentic New York taste
Image credit: Finn O'Hara

Buffalo wings (just “wings” in western New York) were first prepared at the Anchor Bar on Main Street, Buffalo, in 1964. Inspired by her son and his friends’ late-night munchies (these were the ’60s, after all), co-owner Teressa Bellissimo thought to deep-fry chicken wings and toss them in hot sauce. Not since the Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup have two great tastes tasted so great together. The once discarded wing sections became a local phenomenon. Today the Anchor Bar sells more than 10,000 pounds of wings each week. Meanwhile, Toronto locales, while sometimes nodding to Main Street, have made wings their own.

The Place: Allen's, 143 Danforth Ave., 416-463-3086
The Wings: Manhattan Capon Wings, eight for $8.95. At once crispy and wet, and doused with sauce.
The Side: "Blue cheese dressing" is really sour cream topped with blue and parsley.
The Sauce: A tasty yet woolly mix (Vinegar? Worcestershire? Honey?). Proprietor John Maxwell fesses up to just one ingredient: tamarind.
The Verdict: Subversively appealing.

The Place: Bow and Arrow Pub, 1954 Yonge St., 416-487-2036
The Wings: Sea Salt and Pepper Wings, 10 for $9.99 (half price after 5 p.m. on Monday). Promised: shakings of salt and fresh-cracked black pepper. Delivered: S&P, plus a hint of KFC.
The Side: Fresh carrot and celery strips in the basket, plus a sidecar of lacklustre blue cheese dressing.
The Sauce: None.
The Verdict: Highly addictive; satisfies like a fast-food fix.

The Place: Peter's Cajun Creole Pizza, 181 Parliament St., 416-368-8099
The Wings: Cajun Chicken Wings, 12 for $8.75. Deep-fried and sprinkled with Cajun seasoning salt.
The Side: Nothing but napkins.
The Sauce: Straight-up Frank's RedHot barbecue or, for the heat-averse, honey-garlic.
The Verdict: Anomalous on a menu of gourmet pizzas and pastas, the wings have become Peter’s sleeper hit.

The Place: Duff's Famous Wings, 1604 Bayview Ave., 416-544-0100
The Wings: Famous Wings, 10 for $8.95. Meaty, crisp-skinned and hot two ways.
The Side: Pristine celery sticks and delicious creamy dill or blue cheese dressing.
The Sauce: Measured in Scoville units: 0 = plain, 10,000 = medium, 500,000 = death (a bright, vinegary ecstasy). 850,000 triggers Armageddon.
The Verdict: The real deal. Duff’s N.Y. parent got into the wing game in 1969. This lone northern outpost has history and great taste on its side.


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