Illustration by Brian Rea

As a long-term investment, gold and real estate have nothing on fine wine. The top collectibles—first growth bordeaux, grand cru burgundy, California cult cabernets and supertuscans—have increased in value tenfold in a generation. Demand has exploded in recent years as new Asian wealth chases a finite yield from the world’s best vineyards. But there are two problems with ponying up hundreds of dollars for these investment wines, beyond their stratospheric prices (the iconic Romanée-Conti 2005 burgundy is $900). For starters, in Ontario it’s illegal to reap profit by selling alcohol privately, making the LCBO’s commercial fine wine auction the only place to cash in on your investments. If the aim is to eventually drink the wine, the quality might double, but it won’t increase tenfold, creating a huge expectation gap. (What exactly does $9,000 taste like?)

The best strategy in lean times is to focus investment objectives on pleasure, to scrounge for those diamonds in the rough that get five-star or outstanding 90-plus ratings, without triple-digit price tags. Many of these wines can easily age 10 to 20 years, at which point their reputation may catch up and surpass today’s price. To find a wine that will cellar well, buy one bottle, open it right away, decant and let it breathe for an hour or two. If it’s a keeper, the flavours will start strong and stay focused onto a long finish. The texture will have a satiny refinement even if young tannin is kicking up some astringent fuss (time will deal with that adolescent behaviour). If the wine is exquisite, it’s worth buying a case. Every December, Vintages releases a selection of more expensive, age-worthy wines. I was disappointed with many of the wines over $100, but several under $100 exceeded expectations. Here are 10 relatively frugal choices that are perfect for future indulgences.

Perrin 2006 Les Sinards Châteauneuf-du-Pape
$38.95 | Rhône Valley, France | 90 POINTS
The famed Château de Beaucastel 2006 is excellent but overpriced at $91. Les Sinards comes from the same winemaker but uses grapes from younger vines—and is better value. The aromatic fireworks from 70 per cent grenache include notes of leather, cherry and pepper. It’s smooth, full bodied and dry, with a meaty finish. Excellent length. Best 2011 to 2015. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 926626

White

Bouchard Père & Fils 2006 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru
$101.95 | Burgundy, France | 96 points
A magnificent chardonnay from a great vintage and vineyard, this is one of the few whites actually worth $100. Complex baked pear, toast, olive oil and peppery notes rise from the glass and finish well into next week, picking up dry minerality en route. Try one now, save others through 2020. Vintages, December 6. LCBO 87049

Henschke 2006 Tilly’s Vineyard
$27.95 | Barossa Valley, South Australia | 93 points
Anchored by 55 per cent sémillon—the most under-appreciated, undervalued white grape—Henschke’s powerful blend has a nose of lime, mango, pepper and celery leaf. It’s creamy (due to 10 per cent oak aging), but spiked with refreshing acidity. Excellent length. Best 2010 to 2015. Vintages, December 6. LCBO 656264

Red

Ballot-Millot 2006 Beaune Epenottes 1er Cru
$61.95 | Burgundy, France | 94 points
From a three-generation family domain of just 12 hectares comes one of the most perfectly pitched pinot noirs of the year. It shows amazing tension, with a lively interplay of ripe cherry, blueberry and woodsy notes, along with a vibrant acidity, tannin, alcohol and fruit on the palate. Excellent length. Best 2011 to 2016. Vintages, December 6. LCBO 103317

Banfi 2003 Brunello di Montalcino
$68.95 | Tuscany, Italy | 89 points
Brunello makes the most long-lasting sangiovese. The hot 2003 vintage adds even more weight. Already maturing aromas display cherry and currant, with dried herbs and a touch of leather. Excellent length. Should hold through 2013. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 378257

Beringer 2005 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$39.95 | California | 89 points
From a small valley wedged between Napa and Sonoma, winemaker Laurie Hook has assembled a fine, fragrant, feminine cabernet with floral, blackcurrant, vanilla and tobacco notes. It’s medium-full bodied and refined, with firm, dusty tannin and good length. Best 2010 to 2015. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 352583

Château d’Aiguilhe 2005 Côtes de Castillon
$47.95 | Bordeaux, France | 95 points
From a little-known appellation adjacent to St. Émilion, this is an underpriced masterpiece from one of Bordeaux’s greatest vintages. A modern, glass-staining epic, it’s drenched in flavour—almost sagging under the weight of all that perfectly ripened blackberry, fig, mocha and licorice. It holds its poise with perfectly integrated tannin. Best 2011 to 2020 and beyond. Vintages, December 6. LCBO 501205

Cliff Lede 2005 Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon
$56.95 | Napa Valley, California | 93 points
Edmonton-born businessman Cliff Lede invested in a Napa winery in 2002; his gamble has paid off. This young cabernet is a powerhouse, with a nose of cassis, chocolate, herbs and leather. Try one now, and age the rest for a decade or longer. Vintages, December 6. LCBO 14217

Le Clos Jordanne 2006 Pinot Noir Village Reserve
$30 | Niagara Peninsula | 88 points
The Franco-Canuck venture is putting Ontario pinot noir on the world stage; this one is the best value of its five 2006 pinots. With cran-raspberry and an earthy background, it’s mid-weight, sinewy, sourish and tannic but has mid-palate elegance. Very good length. Best 2011 to 2014. Vintages, December 6. LCBO 33894

Penfolds 2005 Thomas Hyland Shiraz
$20.95 | Adelaide, South Australia | 88 points
Penfolds makes some of the most age-worthy reds in the New World; even a $20 bottle could last a decade. Compact, with blackberry and earthy notes and a touch of vanilla. Good length. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 611210

Related:
• Old as the Hills: Two thousand years on, a famed region’s wines go modern
• Lawrason on Wine: The legendary Henschke wines are coming to the LCBO