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Restaurant Guide 2008

Props to the Crops

Farmers and even cheese makers now get nearly as much play as chefs on city menus. Here, the most name-dropped food producers

Producer Antony (the Manic Organic) John and his wife, Tina, growers of 50 varieties of veg and greens near Stratford. Bradford’s Denise and Dennis Harrison. At Cowbell’s request, their pigs are on a strict mustard green diet. Monforte Dairy cheese maker Ruth Klahsen’s growing dairy lies in the heart of Mennonite country. Carl Rousseau and Alexandre Aubin of St. Canut Farms in the Laurentians.
Showcase dish Salad with baby leeks, fingerling potatoes, wild arugula and heirloom root vegetables, $11. Frenched Berkshire pork chop with carrots, fingerling potatoes, cinnamon mushrooms and an apple compote, $27. Toscano, an aged pecorino-like cheese, crumbled over hazelnut, sage and butternut squash dumplings, $19. St. Canut organic suckling pig, an assiette that could feature sous vide bellies or rustic pâtés, $40.
Where Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar Cowbell Drake Hotel Canoe

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