Porky’s Revenge
Keep your chitterlings. Give us the chop By Eric Vellend
Image credit: Ryan Szulc
Chefs, butchers and charcutiers have been waving the nose-to-tail flag too proudly lately, forgetting that some of us don’t adore headcheese, chitterlings and trotter pie. Sometimes the simplest cuts offer the most pleasure, like an old-fashioned chop—thick and juicy. At Quince, chef Michael van den Winkel marinates whole pork loins in brine perfumed with star anise, rosemary and garlic. Seared to perfection on the grill, the meaty slabs are topped with a sweet-and-sour chutney of golden raisins and mustard seed. But the best part lies underneath: crisp, salty fingerlings and a sublime sauté of caramelized squash, smoky bacon and crunchy pepitas—hash this good usually has to be smuggled from Morocco. At $19, it’s a carnivorous fix that won’t break the bank.
Quince, 2110 Yonge St. (at Manor Rd. W.), 416-488-2110.
Related:
• Bread Winner: The best brioche pudding ever
• Go Fish: Seafood dishes that won’t wreck the planet or your health
• Meal Deal: A primer on recession-era dining
Comments
Comment on this story
Neither Eric Vellend nor Toronto Life necessarily agree with the comments posted here. Editors will not correct spelling or grammar. Toronto Life reserves the right to edit or delete comments entirely. Read our full policy
Some articles on this site require that you have a Torontolife.com account in order to comment, and this is one of them. If you do not have an account, you can register now.
Follow Toronto Life on Twitter, Facebook and via RSS