Best of the City
Polygastronomic Spree
Casual decor and simple fare have taken over, but there are still a few spots where dining is an event. Where to go (and what to have) for all-out extravagance
Madeline's
Image credit: John Cullen
Canoe
St. Canut Farms’ milk-fed suckling
piglet—famous for its tenderness and intense porcine flavour—comes in three succulent variations: a braised piece of belly; a roasted loin accompanied by mustardy spaetzle and rapini tossed with riesling-soaked raisins and bacon; and
a crisp panko-crusted torchon.
Didier
Of all chef Didier Leroy’s gorgeous after-dinner indulgences, the banana soufflé is most likely to evoke orgasmic sighs. Warm from the oven, the towering little bomb is brought to the table, where a server cracks its caramel-coloured crust and pours dark, melting Valrhona Manjari chocolate into
its soft, gooey centre.
Eigensinn Farm
Sitting down to Michael Stadtländer’s eight-course tasting menu in his family’s secluded farmhouse is a rite of passage
for gastronomes, who willingly wait months for a reservation. Most ingredients come straight from the farm and are assembled
in a parade of beautiful continental (and Japanese-influenced) creations that make the $275 per person price tag and two-hour drive all worth it.
George
A carnivore’s dream, chef Lorenzo Loseto’s intricate smoked beef starter layers a mound of sliced, olive oil–tossed tenderloin on ripe anjou pear. A chiffonade of basil, crispy-fried taro strands and a scoop of mascarpone complete the dainty stack.
Madeline’s
It sounds like overkill, but somehow Susur Lee’s Moroccan-inspired decor—scarlet wallpaper, layers of black brocade and richly coloured velvet banquettes—makes diners feel as though they are at the centre of all things sumptuous and chic.
Via Allegro
The Etobicoke mall sprawl along the Queensway is an unlikely home for
the largest and arguably the finest wine
list in the city (more than 5,500 varieties ranging in price from $50 to $20,000).
For a surefire splurge, head sommelier Wendy Votto nominates the coveted $3,500 1982 Château Cheval Blanc
(Paul Giamatti quaffs the 1961 vintage
in the anti-climax of Sideways). One of the best vintages from Bordeaux this century, the 1982 exudes toffee, butter and melting chocolate, all with a cashmere-like softness.
Also in the Valentine’s Day Guide:
• How to spend a romantic night on the town
• Where to buy gorgeous flowers
• The city’s most sinful chocolates
• Six best restaurants for romance
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