The little mirrors that were part of Arlequin’s decor now hang beside the front window at L’Unità in a respectful homage to the previous tenant of 23 years. But the mourning stops there. Front-of-house veterans David Minicucci (Xacutti) and Sam Kalogiros (Ultra Supper Club) whip up a most convivial vibe—the new kid on the Av and Dav block has been party central since it opened in the fall. In the kitchen, chef Doug Neigel (Park Hyatt) offers “Italian cooking with a Cana­dian heart,” including an early favourite: perfect red wine risotto with a pesto-spiked marrow bone. This isn’t the first place named for a Communist newspaper, but it’s by far the most fun.

L’Unità, 134 Avenue Rd., 416-964-8686.

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