Illustration by Brian Rea

A common mistake people make when entertaining is attempting to craft an impeccable wine list. But perfection—at least for yuletide libations—is overrated. Most likely, the guests’ attention will be focused elsewhere (Bing Crosby karaoke or canoodling by the canapés, depending on the crowd). It’s more important to ensure there’s a variety to suit different tastes. The wines should be fairly familiar, so that choosing one will not require encyclopedic knowledge. As guests tend to gravitate to whites (for fear of staining their teeth or the white shag rug), have extra on hand. Wines don’t need to match the hors d’oeuvre; the permutations are too complex to plan, and chances are they won’t be consumed in the proper order. Expensive reds packed with pedigree generally aren’t worth the money; hosts might earn a knowing nod from the wine fan on the guest list, but that’s it. (And if it’s a pricey young red brimming with tannin, it will taste like rough-hewn lumber.) Of course, some cheapie with the personality of a pickle isn’t what’s desired, either. What’s important is drinkability. The smart money is on wines that have balance, smooth texture and bright flavours—wines that show up to party, as well. Here are fail-safe bottles that every well-stocked party should have. If a wine below isn’t available at the local LCBO, select one of a similar style or comparable region. More corks will likely be pulled in the coming weeks than at any other time of year (if not for festivities, then to drown the horror of the market meltdown)—it’s the perfect chance to try something new.

Sonoma-Cutrer 2006 Russian River Ranches Chardonnay
$24.95 | Sonoma County, California | 92 points
This is a chardonnay that everyone (including the anything-but-chardonnay crowd) will love. A class act, it’s pristine and precise, with fragrant, pure aromas of apple and peach embossed with vanilla, butter and light spice. Mid-weight and lively yet delicate; very refined, with excellent length. A new Vintages Essentials listing. LCBO 608653

APERITIF

Gonzales Byass Tio Pepe Palomino Fino Sherry
$16.95 | Jerez, Spain | 88 points
It may seem as anachronistic as a butler, but served snapping cold beside spicy seafood, chorizo, cheese and veggie hors d’oeuvre (a.k.a. tapas), fino is a revelation. Tio Pepe is a textbook fino sherry (Spain’s lightest, driest sherry), with delicate aromas of granny smith apple, sourdough bread, olive and toasted almond. Vintages, November 8. LCBO 242669

Hillebrand Trius Brut
$24.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 88 points
Serving good French champagne is an easy but expensive way to impress. This worthy spark­ler is half the price. Trius has improved with every batch, especially since winemaker Darryl Brooker joined the fold in 2005. Light and fairly gentle, with complex dried fruit, biscuit and lemon flavours, it’s perfect by itself. LCBO 451641

WHITE

Dog Point Vineyard 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
$21.95 | Marlborough, New Zealand | 92 points
Good sauvignon blanc is the world’s most refreshing white, and this silver-green wine pours like a mountain stream in N.Z.’s Southern Alps. Amazing clarity, tension and precision, with lifted green apple, kiwi, fresh thyme and lemon grass aromas. Slim and zesty, with rounding sweetness on the finish. Serve cold but not icy, with seafood nearby. Vintages. LCBO 677450

Fielding Estate 2007 Riesling
$16 | Niagara Peninsula | 88 points
Every party needs a slightly sweet sipper for young palates (and old ones seeking rejuvenation). This delicate (11.5 per cent alcohol), off-dry, Canadian Wine Awards gold medallist fills the niche perfectly. The herbal nose is bright, with pear, grapefruit and a touch of riesling’s unique petrol. Pair with Asian-inspired hors d’oeuvre. Vintages, November 8. LCBO 36202

RED

Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Red Twisted
$19.95 | Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara | 87 points
Flat Rock owner Ed Madronich fermented syrah, pinot noir and white chardonnay together, then oak aged the result. The mild-mannered blend is light, fruity and charming, with strawberry-raspberry florality and background spice. Chill lightly. No great length or depth, but fun. Vintages, November 8. LCBO 86918

J. Lohr 2006 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon
$19.95 | Paso Robles, California | 88 points
J. Lohr topped the cabernet class at the Under $25 International Value Wine Awards. Shows deep colour and a bouquet of blackberry, choco­late and almonds. Full bodied and smooth, with fine tannin and a slightly earthy finish. Also available in a magnum. LCBO 656561

Two Hands 2006 The Lucky Country Shiraz
$17.95 | Barossa Valley, South Australia | 91 points
Hosts ignore Aussie shiraz at their peril—it’s still the favourite wine of many. And this is a quintessential shiraz at a great price. It’s a Christmas cake of raisin, plum, chocolate mint and clove. Incredible richness outmanoeuvres the firm tannin. Vintages. LCBO 77883

Zonin 2006 Ripasso Valpolicella
$19.95 | Venetia, Italy | 89 points
The ripasso genre of northeast Italy—made by adding wine re-fermented from raisined grape skins—is beloved, especially now that amarone from the same Verona hills is pushing $50. This modern version crosses port-like ripeness with black cherry and chocolate, as well as leathery notes of old Italy. Vintages. LCBO 84798

DIGESTIF

Warre’s 10-Year-Old Otima Port
$22.85/500 ml | Douro Valley, Portugal | 90 points
Party’s over; dishes are done. Time to find some relaxation in a glass. Linger on the apricot, orange, honey and cedar aromas. It’s sweet and ele­gant, with slight walnut tang on the finish. Try it with old cheddar and pecans. LCBO 566174

Related:
• Best Wines Under $10: The LCBO has recently obtained a rash of wallet-friendly new listings
• Drink Outside the Box: The latest high-design (and high-tech) wine accessories
• Hot Flash: The best Ontario wines from the 2007 vintage
• The Grape Debate: The wine regions of Niagara and Prince Edward County couldn’t be more different. Here, how the two areas stack up