A welcome respite from the endless trattorias of Little Italy, the newly opened Pantry may well be a harbinger of good things for the worn strip of College west of Dovercourt. Co-owners (and spouses) Liz Dnieper-Bolton and Greg Bolton have set out to “bring restaurant-quality food to on-the-go working parents and families who are sick of ordering in pizza.” Patrons of the nearby YMCA stop by to fuel up on tasty, healthy lunches, entrées and sides—some requiring a bit of cooking and assembly at home—as do the professionals who populate the local side streets. As a busy working mom, Dnieper-Bolton knows the market she’s courting; she has purposely left plenty of room at the front for stroller parking, and has streamlined Pantry’s takeout process to keep service brisk and friendly. Her goal is to create an environment in which working parents, stay-at-homers and childless locals can happily coexist. The tot-friendly atmosphere is underlined by the presence of glass baby bottles, hand-sewn bibs, a kiddy menu and vintage Fisher-Price toys.

The decor helps, too. Natural light pours over warm white walls, exposed brick, dark wood cabinets and original pine floors, giving this former tea room (and before that, taxidermist’s) an old-world apothecary vibe. Antique honey tins, vintage rolling pins, elegant crystal chandeliers and a sexy cherry red sofa create a homey feel, as do the shelves of well-chosen artisanal goodies: olive oils, jams, cookies, tapenades and vinegars—including hard-to-find Northern Whisper, a handmade small-batch maple vinegar from Hamilton’s award-winning Mr. Vinegar.

Pantry uses guilt-free eco-friendly containers for the elegant takeout displayed temptingly in a cooler: house-smoked Arctic char salad, Pommery mustard–marinated organic flank steak, and a unique yam and yukon gold lasagna. Chefs Simon Sperling and Gary Hoyer have adopted a mandate to use organic, seasonal, local and sustainable ingredients wherever possible. The same rule applies to the cookies, brownies and muffins that are made in-house by pastry chef Audrey Demers (and they can be washed down with Balzac’s coffee). It won’t be long before the Lululemon set make this its destination for post-yoga lattes and Bébé Dorm show ’n’ shines.

Pantry, 974 College St. (at Dovercourt Rd.), 416-364-2495.