A dozen years after NAFTA, Toronto finally has a reason to celebrate: the arrival of Arturo and Andrés Anhalt and their new restaurant, Milagro. The brothers vow to break Cal-Mex cooking’s spell on the city, with such authentic offerings as pork cooked in banana leaves and blended with Yuca­tán spices, and a delightful salad made from the leaves of the nopal cactus. Little things count: homemade tortillas, fresh sangrita to accompany an outstanding list of tequilas, plus the judicious—and around these parts, exceedingly rare—use of pork fat, key to traditional Mexican cuisine. Here’s to a menu blessedly free of nachos and sour cream.

Milagro Restaurante Mexicano y Cantina, 5 Mercer St., 416-850-2855.