Opening
Milagro
Two Mexico City brothers bring alta cocina north By Bruce Geddes
Banana bowl: Milagro's platillo de cochinita pibil pairs caramelized plantain and green onions with spicy pulled pork, refried beans and house-made corn tortillas
A dozen years after NAFTA, Toronto finally has a reason to celebrate: the arrival of Arturo and Andrés Anhalt and their new restaurant, Milagro. The brothers vow to break Cal-Mex cooking’s spell on the city, with such authentic offerings as pork cooked in banana leaves and blended with Yucatán spices, and a delightful salad made from the leaves of the nopal cactus. Little things count: homemade tortillas, fresh sangrita to accompany an outstanding list of tequilas, plus the judicious—and around these parts, exceedingly rare—use of pork fat, key to traditional Mexican cuisine. Here’s to a menu blessedly free of nachos and sour cream.
Milagro Restaurante Mexicano y Cantina, 5 Mercer St., 416-850-2855.
TEST Originally published September 2006
Comments
Milagro
Comments are not enabled for this article.
Follow Toronto Life on Twitter, Facebook and via RSS