In his six years at Senses, Claudio Aprile earned a reputation as a mad scientist playing spectacular tricks with food. But in planning his newest venture, the star chef wanted to be free of others’ expectations. His tabula rasa is Colborne Lane, where diners will find two elaborate tasting menus, as well as such à la carte options as rare tuna with crispy nori, ginger marmalade, frozen soy sauce powder and wasabi foam. Though Aprile bristles at the term molecular gastronomy, he admits he’s been collaborating lately with a band of University of Guelph food scientists. “At every place I’ve worked, I’ve changed everything I thought I knew about food,” he says. “That’s certainly going to be the case here.”

Colborne Lane, 45 Colborne St., 416-368-9009.