When a prime space at the intersection of Hip and Happening went up for lease last winter, restaurateurs from all over the city saw an opportunity to get in on the action. At the time, rumour had it that many of Toronto’s superchefs toured the property, but the guy who got it was Hanif Harji, the soft-spoken resto-god behind local it spots Kultura, Blowfish and Colborne Lane. Of course winning the space was just the beginning of a sordid saga that involved one false start (the much buzzed about boîte was originally going to be called Bar Crudo, and was set to open in summer 2007), a gossip-ridden ownership change (Harji’s split with his original partner, chef Claudio Aprile, who was replaced by Roger Mooking) and a whole lot of what’s-the-hold-up from the city’s salivating fooderatti. Now, at long last, the wait is over, and despite almost no publicity, the little restaurant that could is already a dining destination. The space—all high ceilings, huge stainless steel doors and sweeping light fixtures—looks like something out of a futuristic production of Phantom of the Opera, managing somehow to be both opulent and intimate at the same time. The menu boasts strong Mediterranean influences, with smallish plates meant for sharing, and, come summer, the giant doors will spill open onto Queen Street, so that diners can take in a little neighbourhood style with their ceviche.

Nyood, 1096 Queen St. W. (at Dovercourt), 416-466-1888.

Read the review of Nyood >>