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Nose Job

JK Wine Bar sommelier Jamie Drummond dishes on how he got started, and where and what he sips on his night off

Uncommon scents: Drummond at JK Wine Bar Uncommon scents: Drummond at JK Wine Bar
Image credit: Regina Garcia

How did you first get into wine?
I wanted to be a music journalist. After finishing a bachelor of arts in London, I moved back to Edinburgh—where I’m from—and got a job at a restaurant to pay the bills. The owner offered to put me through wine school if I looked after the cellar. I started off in Canada at the Granite Club 10 years ago, then Jamie Kennedy offered me this job.

How many wines do you taste in a day?
Thirty or 40 a day. I used to write everything down, but now it goes into my olfactory memory. And I am talking about tasting, not drinking.

What do you drink at home?
A mug or two of Horlicks malted milk. It’s how I relieve my palate at the end of the day.

What do you look for when choosing a wine?
I try to track down wines that are truly outstanding and different. I get very upset if another restaurant has what we have. That means my wine agent has been lying to me. I try to make sure all the wines can provoke some sort of discourse.

Are there any cellars in the city that you covet?
I’m not usually impressed by the size and depth of a cellar—they are often held by trophy collectors—but Barberian’s (7 Elm St., 416-597-0335) has one of the most stunning libraries of vintage wine. Of the smaller cellars, which are often more interesting, I love Anton Potvin’s Niagara Street Café. The list has been put together carefully and he always goes for the most interesting wines.

Where do you go on your nights off?
The Niagara Street Café, of course. Under the new chef, Mike Caballo, the menu has taken on a Spanish influence. It’s a great place to take a date. I also love La Palette in Kensington Market, and I often go to The Communist’s Daughter, a dive bar with a great jukebox and good beer. They have a small menu of things like sandwiches and pickled eggs, which are a welcome respite at the end of the week.

Any tips on how to pick a good wine?
It’s best to speak to the sommelier; they’re happy to present something they’re excited about. It depends on your priorities, but I often choose a wine first, then the food to accompany it.

Originally published April 2007

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