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Neapolitan Complex
A new Terroni looms large
Image credit: Margaret Mulligan
Terroni has always been the little pizza shop that could. When the first location opened on Queen West in 1992, foodies jammed the tiny room for the charming, fresh-off-the-boat (in the best possible way) service, the handmade pastas and the thin-crusted pizzas that tasted decidedly more Napoli (house tomato sauce, fresh basil) than New York (rubbery mozz blessedly absent). Fifteen years and three outposts later (one of them in L.A.), company front man Cosimo Mammoliti is finally thinking big. This fall, he opens a 10,000-square-foot location in the old courthouse building (57 Adelaide St. E., 416-203-3093). The soaring space features an authentic enoteca up front, where diners can choose from an admirable by-the-glass wine list, Italian cheeses, and prosciuttos, including hams from Niagara’s Mario Pingue. With two state-of-the-art pasta machines from Italy, proper grills and frying stations in the sizable open kitchen (“all our other kitchens are so small,” Mammoliti says), plus the pizza oven, of course, the food should be nothing less than what we’ve come to expect. And with seating for 370 (300 inside, 70 out), we might all finally be able to get a table.
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