Instead of lamenting the passage of summer, why not embrace the return of simple pleasures, like the gentle melody of a braise or stew bubbling away on the stovetop. Rocco Agostino, chef at the Silver Spoon, greets the incoming chill with an elegant serving of cassoulet, the iconic southern French comfort food. Tender lamb shank, rich duck confit, and sharp blue cheese and pear sausage, all house-made, mingle with barlotti beans cooked to al dente in a dense pool of reduced beef stock. The result is an unctuous medley of meatiness leavened by a pesto of walnut and fines herbes—a refreshingly green note that hearkens back to sunnier days. Paired with a pillow of silken celery root purée with truffle oil, as well as a single pan-roasted lamb chop, the dish captures all that’s best about cold-weather cooking. $26.

The Silver Spoon, 390 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-516-8112.