The Morning After
Where to have your first brunch of ’07 By Liz Allemang
As anyone who has experienced the day after the night before knows, the universal cure for cotton mouth and post-party sluggishness is a nice, hot, greasy breakfast. While many of the city’s better-known brunch haunts, including Xacutti, Aunties and Uncles and Bonjour Brioche, will be shuttered on January 1, a handful of hot spots gladly cater to the hungover crowd. (At press time, Dundas Street’s popular—and tiny—Saving Grace was undecided about opening.) If your favourite greasy spoon isn’t on this list, call ahead to make sure they’ll be frying up bacon for the recovering masses.
Four Seasons
The posh Yorkville hotel plays host to three appropriately upscale brunches.
Vegetarians and brunch purists alike will rejoice over the dishes on offer ($48 per person) at the Studio Cafe. Comfort favourites undergo a couple of thoughtful tweaks—French toast is made with panettone, topped with candied orange slices and warm chocolate sauce; while classed-up steak and eggs are served with fingerling potatoes and béarnaise. Truffles, the Four Seasons’ chi-chi full-service restaurant, features a resplendent spread ($70 per person) that includes made-to-order omelettes (served with applewood smoked bacon), as well as a raw bar featuring smoked sable fish, oysters and poached salmon. Kid-friendly options such as chicken fingers and curly fries are decidedly less high-end, but sure to keep the little ones quiet and content. A pared-down version of the same menu ($70 per person) is featured at the hotel’s lounge, Avenue, which offers a somewhat more relaxed setting. For reservations call 416-963-6919.
Mitzi’s Sister
Since opening almost four years ago, the low-key Parkdale bar has quickly become a favourite among families, local bohos—the crowd includes a disproportionately high number of musicians, artists and writers—and people who just appreciate a really stellar brunch. Available options include such mains as huevos rancheros (scrambled eggs in a whole wheat tortilla, with house-made refried beans, tomato salsa and guacamole) and a decadent French toast made with challah dunked in an egg–whipping cream wash, topped with mango sauce and candied cashews. After 11 a.m., the bubbly breakfast cocktails start to flow—expect prosecco with freshly squeezed orange or grapefruit juice to be particularly popular. No reservations.
Senses Bakery
Though the Senses restaurant will be closed on New Year’s Day, the bakery hosts a most refined three-course brunch ($45 per person), complete with mimosas. Appropriately ritzy oyster-champagne soup, topped with salmon roe and crème fraîche, and equally indulgent veal tenderloin flanked by celeriac purée and leek confit, topped with foie gras foam, are two of the more luxe options. A choice of Senses’ famous desserts rounds out the meal. Reservations recommended.
The Gladstone Hotel
The hipster haunt serves its regular à la carte brunch in the hotel’s laid-back Ballroom Café. Compared to breakfast spots that flaunt endless variations on French toast and eggs Benny, the menu is positively minimal. But what the Gladstone does, it does well—hearty classics with Canadiana flourishes (the $7.95 Nitty Gritty includes eggs, back bacon, beans, home fries, broiled tomato and toast) and a few veggie-friendly mains (Tofu Scramble, $7.95). A couple of festive specials, with choice of cocktail, are available for the occasion. No reservations.
Edward Lesvesque’s Kitchen, 1290 Queen St. E., 416-465-3600.
Customers flock to this Queen Street East institution for classy breakfast dishes such as perfectly crisp latkes (nestled beneath buttery smoked salmon and the quintessential dollop of sour cream) and golden French toast stuffed with ricotta, honey and dried apricots. Quality ingredients—think double-smoked bacon from Uppercut and thickly sliced multi-grain from Silversteins—make for top-notch meals. For those who can stomach it, the Winnipeg Red-Eye one part beer, one part tomato juice, a dash of Tabasco) is said to be an excellent morning-after pick-me-up. No reservations.
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