Quest
August 2007
A Month of Sundays
A quartet of top toques elevates the midday breakfast By Shaun Smith
Humble pie: Jamie Kennedy's goat cheese tartlet with cured tomatoes
Image credit: James Reid
Toronto’s diners have almost always seen Sunday brunch as a casual affair, but this summer, four of the city’s best dinner spots got into the game. So smooth out that bed head and try these on for size. We did.
| The Place | The Menu | The Mood | Standout Dish | The Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bistro & Bakery Thuet 609 King St. W., 416-603-2777 |
Quiche Lorraine and croques meet hearty Canadiana. Superb charcuterie, breads and pastries | Harried, sometimes haughty service in an elegant but crowded room | Eggs en cocotte ($16) baked with chunks of Quebec foie gras in red wine–shallot reduction | Beautiful breakfasts, though we could do without the side of service aggro |
| Didier 1496 Yonge St., 416-925-8588 |
Luxe bistro classics (read: eggs with truffles and foie) and sublime pastries made in-house | Diners haven’t yet discovered brunch here. Upside: service all to yourself. Downside: service all to yourself | The (perfectly cooked) omelette payÂsanne ($22), with potato, mushrooms and double-smoked bacon | A sure-thing special-occasion spot. Though pricey, the food is excellent and prepared with care |
| The Rosebud 669 Queen St. W., 416-703-8810 |
Haute home-style cooking. Where else can you find a plate of soft-boiled eggs with toast soldiers, salt cod cakes and pork chops? | Dark wood panelling and ironic animal paintings lend this hip (if somewhat penumbral) joint a 1940s chophouse feel Friendly servers keep it breezy. | The Lovey Sandwich ($12): avocado, havarti, bacon, fried eggs, lettuce, Thai hot sauce and aïoli. BYO defibrillator | Chef-owner Rodney Bowers’ food is delicious and decadent. Best coffee and best value |
| Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar 9 Church St., 416-362-1957 |
A prix fixe ($20) carte features creatively elevated variations on the classics, from crêpes to corned beef hash | Urbane and relaxed—good for brunch with the in-laws, or as a hangover hangout | Flaky-crusted goat cheese tartlet with cured tomatoes. Match with an organic egg en cocotte atop buttery polenta and Niagara Gold cheese. | The champion of breakfasts. The food is flawless, the experience easygoing. The best of the brunch bunch |
