Illustration by Dan Page;
Photographs of wine by Carmen Cheung

Small-batch wines that focus on quality and vineyard terroir are gaining traction in North America as the New World industry matures. As usual, Sonoma County, on California’s northern coast, is on the cutting edge: there’s been an explosion of bottlings from tiny wineries and micro-labels by moonlighting winemakers. On my latest visit, I discovered that two notable endeavours are run by enterprising Torontonians. In the 1990s, Mike Lancaster moved from Queen and Bathurst to California, eventually opening Tin Barn in an industrial park outside Sonoma, where he transforms small batches of grapes from independent vineyards into fragrant wines. (Cost effectiveness trumps romance: he and other winemakers host tastings in the parking lot.) At the recently refurbished Thomas George Estates in Russian River Valley, a young Toronto restaurateur named Jeremy Baker (the man behind the film fest hot spot Lobby) is also focusing on small lots of terroir-driven wines from premium vineyards.

“There is a new guard in Sonoma, and 40-year-olds are leading the charge,” Baker says. It’s easy to understand why. Sonoma is much more affordable than neighbouring Napa, which has become a vastly overpriced vinous playground for millionaires. The coastal sub-appellations (Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Carneros) have been furiously growing pinot noir and chardonnay—cool-climate Burgundy varieties that tend to attract young, passionate idealists. And within Sonoma’s jigsaw geography there are moderate zones (Sonoma Valley) and hot micro­climates (Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley) in which just about any grape can grow; the conditions are perfect for creating unique wines. Sonoma’s small-batch labels rarely make it to the LCBO, but here are some offerings that express the region’s new diversity.

Sonoma-Cutrer 2007 Russian River Ranches Chardonnay
$24.95 | Sonoma Coast | 90 points
This winery has been specializing in chardonnay for years, becoming so adept that its bottles are among the top-selling chardonnays in American restaurants. Elegant yet powerful, with a complex nose of pear, buttermint candy, smoke and nuts. Medium weight, with taut acidity, alcohol heat and excellent flavour length. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 608653

White

Murphy-Goode 2006 Chardonnay
$22.70 | Sonoma County | 89 points
Sonoma County is the best region in California for chardonnay, and this mature example shows why. A creamy texture is offset by lacy acidity, and the wine displays a nutty character amid flavours of smoke, butter and yellow apple. Buy 12-bottle cases at robgroh.com.

Thomas George 2008 Stuhlmuller Vineyard Inox Chardonnay
$35.70 | Alexander Valley | 90 points
Thomas George’s 100 per cent stainless steel–fermented chard resembles French chablis more than any I’ve tasted from California. Lifted aromas are more tropical (green mango), but there’s a mouth-watering, juicy character. Excellent length. Order by the six‑bottle case from bwwines.com.

Thomas George 2008 Viognier
$35.15 | Sonoma Valley | 91 points
Viognier, an exotically flavoured grape from southern France, grows well in Sonoma’s moderate climate. This example has typical aromas of fruit cocktail with hints of vanilla. It’s mid-weight, tight and elegant—quite differ­ent from many California examples, which can be overly soft and thick. Order by the six‑bottle case from bwwines.com.

Tin Barn 2008 Sauvignon Blanc
$26.95 | Carneros | 89 points
California is generally too warm to produce great sauvignon, but Tin Barn captures the grape’s lively essence. Not a showboat aromatically, but it has well-integrated peach, mandarin and lime, with sauvignon’s typical grassy, peppery notes on the side. Purchase 12-bottle cases at robgroh.com.

Red

Chateau St. Jean 2006 Sonoma Pinot Noir
$24.95 | Sonoma County | 89 points
Founded in 1973, Chateau St. Jean is practically an elder statesman in Sonoma, but veteran winemaker Margo Van Staaveren keeps the wine bright and stylish. Ripe raspberry is nicely integrated with chocolate, smoke and spice. Gentle, a bit sweet and warm, with chalky tannin on the finish. Chill lightly; enjoy now through 2012. Vintages. LCBO 687970

Cline 2007 Syrah
$14.95 | Sonoma County | 87 points
Cline gained its Rhône reputation with old vineyards in Contra Costa, but this is among the first from new plantings in Sonoma. It’s a sinewy example, with a Rhône-style nose of black cherry, smoked meat and pepper. Acid is tart and mouth-watering, and there is youthful tannin and dark chocolate bitterness on the finish. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 733758

Gallo Family Vineyards 2003 Frei Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon
$35.95 | Dry Creek Valley | 92 points
This is every inch a cabernet sauvignon: full bodied and dense, yet loaded with black­currant, cedar, herbs and clove. Well structured and complex, it would fool Bordeaux tasters. Vintages. LCBO 555607

Rodney Strong 2007 Pinot Noir
$24.95 | Russian River Valley | 88 points
Russian River is becoming one of the world’s great pinot noir zones. Rodney Strong’s has bright, fresh cherry etched with gentle cedar, toast and vanilla. Slightly bitter cran-cherry, spice and green tannin on the finish. Best 2010 to 2013. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 954834

Tin Barn 2005 Zinfandel Gilsson Vineyard
$43.45 | Russian River Valley | 92 points
Sonoma’s hills are full of old zin vineyards. This full-bore example has a fascinating nose of brambleberry, Black Forest cake and leather. It’s smooth, powerful and hot on the finish (15.5 per cent alcohol), but the fruit powers through to outstanding length. Buy 12‑bottle cases at robgroh.com.