Meat Wave
A once beloved brand breeds listeria hysteria By Kelly Pullen
Golden age: from a 1949 Canada Packers cookbook
There was a time when brands were a benign construct—wholesome, even. A brand name was a promise, and branded companies spelled progress. In those days, a package of Maple Leaf bacon seemed only a couple of trusted hands, a conveyor belt and a short truck ride away from your local butcher. But that was then—before massive recalls on everything from baby bottles to bologna got us wondering whether die-hard locavores might have the right idea. In this year of contaminated cold cuts and mortgage meltdowns, big-name brands breed suspicion, not confidence, and bad PR is like a bacteria: hard to contain.
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