Weekly Lunch Pick
Matagali
The downtown favourite’s menu—listing both Indian and Thai dishes—offers filling, affordable lunches. (Trust us; the dual identity is more charming than it sounds) By Andrew Brudz
Big dippers: the vegetable pakoras at Matagali
Image credit: Sarah Roberto
The place: This unassuming (and easy-to-miss) restaurant near Dundas and Bay Streets has long been one of downtown’s best-kept lunch secrets. Tucked under a row of townhouses, it’s ideal for a laid-back lunch and, for many employees of the nearby hospitals, a welcome alternative to sterile cafeterias and the Eaton Centre food court. Elephant-themed decor attempts to join the two cultures but instead comes off as dark and dated, and does no justice to the food.
The crowd: Even on a soggy afternoon, a crowd of casual diners fills the place. Some pop in for a quick lunch or takeout; others linger with a second round of the house red.
The deal: Fast, cheap and hearty portions of Indian and Thai dishes ($9.95–$14.95) under one roof. Thankfully, there are few attempts at fusion: cashew chicken and lamb rogan josh retain their cultural integrity.
The meal: Indian vegetable pakoras ($5.95)—enough to share—come packed with flavour. Thai basil lamb ($13.95) features tender, perfectly cooked meat and a punch-packing oyster sauce. Served with red peppers and choice of rice, it is unexpectedly filling. The hot, fresh naan ($1.25) helps clean the plate, and the rich mango lassi ($3.95) is a perfect alternative to dessert.
The time: A pretty standard 55 minutes.
The cost: $26, including tax, tip and lassi.
Matagali, 69 Elm St. (at Bay), 416-599-9994.
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Had a meal at the Matagali in the evening on Jan 19, 2011. I have some friends coming over from abroad and I had read Matagali's review on Toronto LIfe, which looked promising. Could also have become a regular venue for lunch. Unfortunately service was painfully slow, which was bizzare since they only had five customers in total. Then I was overcharged compared to the prices indicated on the menu. The owner agreed to correct the error, but was was demonstrably indignant. His explanation was novel too. "Do you expect me to update the menu every six months?". Interesting question to be asked by an owner of a restaurant. I guess I just expect a modicum of courtesy and to be charged what the menu shows. The food and decor. Well they're acceptable, but not something to go out of your way for. Makes you wonder if Toronto Life actually did the ground work, or whether the owner wrote the review himself. Another strange thing. The owner also told a customer who entered when I was just leaving that he too was unwelcome. It seems this potential customer was also unrealistic enough to expect the menu prices to be what the Matagali charges! Shame really. It all started out looking so promising.
January 19, 2011 | by dwolfend