Living on the Veg
Meat-free meals that even a carnivore can love By Eric Vellend
An armada of cured meats, quivering pork bellies and bloody burgers has taken our menus hostage. It’s enough to make a meat lover turn tail. Thankfully, some plucky chefs are finding inspiration in the produce aisle again, giving the flesh-fatigued something to sink their teeth into. Here, three plant-based creations that are mighty satisfying.
The dish: Algoma apple terrine. Crispin apples, from the restaurant owner Lesle Gibson’s family orchard, are thinly sliced and baked in a ring mould with treacly apple butter. Walnuts, endive, Danish blue cheese and flaky Maldon salt up the wow factor. $11.
Carnivorous equivalent: The quilted mosaic of a classic game terrine.
The verdict: A magical mix of sweet, savoury and salty, it’s charcuterie for vegetarians.
Grace, 503 College St., 416-944-8884.
The Dish: Wild mushroom cassoulet. This rich, slow-cooked stew includes fungi, plump heirloom beans, jerusalem artichokes and seasonal veggies. Garlicky bread crumbs and pickled cattail hearts add texture; earthy portobello powder delivers the knockout punch. $18.
Carnivorous equivalent: The artery-clogging namesake casserole from Toulouse.
The verdict: All the meaty satisfaction of the original without the need for Lipitor.
Victor, 30 Mercer St., 416-883-3431.
The Dish: King mushroom faux gras.
The ’shrooms are braised in porcini stock and butter. Thick, velvety slices are draped over a crispy risotto bombe hiding a molten centre of more fungi, pecorino tartufo and fontina. $18.
Carnivorous equivalent: The melting succulence of seared foie gras.
The verdict: As close as you will get to foie gras without involving a dead animal.
Ultra, 314 Queen St. W., 416-263-0330.
Photography by James Reid
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