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Weekly Lunch Pick

La Bréhandaise Crêperie

A master crêpier's galettes and soup are comforting midday treats in the brisk December cold By Catherine Hayday

Sunnyside up: a French classic comes to Queen West
Sunnyside up: a French classic comes to Queen West
Image credit: Catherine Hayday

The place: The ghost of beloved Queen West brunch spot Sugar Café seems determined to scare off new occupants (see the failed Urbano), but the most recent tenant, La Bréhandaise Crêperie, is determined to make it work. The specialty is a Breton galette (a thin buckwheat crêpe) served in a rustic French-inspired interior that smells intoxicatingly warm and sugary. Chef Pascal Poilbout is literally a master of his hallmark dish—just see his credentials on the wall (École Maître Crêpier, October 23, 2008).

The crowd: Ossington Avenue shoppers, ladies with time for afternoon cider, Francophones and francophiles. Servers are gracious about mangled pronunciations, but repeat orders back in flawless accents.

The deal: Tuesday to Thursday (11:30 to 3:00 p.m.), La Bréhandaise offers two lunch combos, each $12.95—a savoury galette plus one of the daily soups, or a galette plus a sweet crêpe to finish.

The meal: The cold day inspires us to choose comforting dishes, starting with a simple tomato and red pepper soup with crisp croutons that quickly (though not too quickly) soften in the thick liquid. The Uzelaise galette is topped with the traditional egg, ham and emmenthal. There’s a bit of Ethiopian in this Gallic galette: like injera, it’s a deceptively hearty dish, and versatile enough to make each bite different. For authenticity (and to take the edge off afternoon meetings), we pair our lunch with a cup—or bolée, the conventional Breton cider vessel—of refreshing Cremant Ciderie St-Nicholas ($9).

The time: 62 minutes.

The cost: $24.91, including cider and tax.

La Bréhandaise Crêperie, 942 Queen St. W. (at Shaw St.), 647-351-0803.

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