April 2008
Know Your Roots
The almost impossible challenge of eating local this late in the season By Signe Langford
It’s easy to be a locavore at the height of summer, but it takes a pioneer’s spirit to keep it up through winter. Especially now: the root cellar is barren, the jars of preserves are near depleted and nothing is growing. Three 100-milers get creative in the kitchen.
MICHAEL POTTERS, HARVEST
Apple tart with ice cider sabayon, $9
The local root-cellared Ida Red apples Potters uses for the tart stay crisp and flavourful through April. When paired with puff pastry and an apple cider–spiked sabayon—a sweet, warm emulsion of sugar and Cherry Valley
egg yolks—it makes for a uniquely Ontario retelling of a French classic.
106 Bridge St., Picton, 613-476-6763.
TOBEY NEMETH, JAMIE KENNEDY WINE BAR
Sweet-potato crêpe with Rouen duck and house-made peanut-hoisin sauce, $11
Who says you can’t do Asian fusion 100-mile style? Nemeth tucks poached and shredded Avalon Farms duck into a golden-orange crêpe of puréed sweet potato. Peanut sauce, sweetened with Amish honey, finishes the dish.
9 Church St., 416-362-1957.
ANTHONY ROSE, THE DRAKE
Quebec Raclette Champêtre, with ratte potatoes, pickled peppers and onions,
and house Berkshire bacon, $12
Employing traditional techniques of farmhouse cooking, Rose smokes his own bacon (with meat from Fred de Martines’ farm in Sebringville) and makes his own pickles. This dish’s flavours emerge slowly, just like spring.
1150 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042.
