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Indian Summer

Can two South Asian sisters conquer Queen West?

Tangy trio: Inus Junction's mango lassi, mintchutney and coconut vindaloo shrimp
Tangy trio: Inus Junction's mango lassi, mint
chutney and coconut vindaloo shrimp
Image credit: Christopher Stevenson

At first glance they seem like model gastro-naïfs: two young sisters with a clear love of food and a decent bankroll, if no record of running a restaurant. But Alka and Poonam Dhir’s idea—to build a modern, stylish, food-focused Indian restaurant in the hipster heart of Queen West—is long overdue. And with Indus Junction (811 Queen St. W., 647-428-7119), they might have the moxie to pull it off. The 30-seat room is possessed of clean, minimalist lines and ostrich leather chairs, without a single stitch of maharaja chintz in sight. The fresh, inviting menu—pillowy lacha paratha; zucchini pancakes with fresh paneer, mint and mango chutney; and sesame-coated Goan crab cakes—not only reads deliciously, but also speaks of the cultural mixing and matching that might be expected of first-generation Canadians growing up in Oakville at their mother’s stove. And Indiaphiles rejoice at another of their smart if cheeky offerings: Limca, the distinctive lemon-lime soda, served with a straw in authentic glass bottles—Queen West (and Chowpatty Beach) casual.


ALSO OPENING:
Rod Bowers, the chef-patron behind Rosebud, the gem of a bistro on Queen West, says he’ll launch The Citizen (730 Queen St. E., 416-465-0100) in mid-June. At long last, the people behind Buddha Dog, the fresh-and-local hot dog shop in Prince Edward County, have secured a city location (163 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-534-2700). They promise to open early this summer. And Tony de Luca, the star chef with the eponymous restaurant in Niagara-on-the-Lake, has opened a casual, 220-seat room (The Old Winery, 2228 Niagara Stone Rd., Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-8900).

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