Tart Appreciation
Once popular enough to inspire admiration societies, mouth-puckering gooseberries fell from favour after disease killed Europe’s crop of 1905. They still have their fans. Some of the best of Ontario’s harvest are found in Rahier’s puff pastry and custard tarts. Six-inch tart $15. 1586 Bayview Ave., 416-482-0917.

Red Devils
Not to be confused with the pink peppercorns so popular in the ’80s, piper nigrum’s true red pepper has a floral bouquet and citrus-hot taste. An excellent if pricey match for the clean flavours of carpaccio and raw fish. $50 per 100 grams. Cheese Boutique, 45 Ripley Ave., 416-762-6292.

Nice Spread
Leave it to the French to find a way to keep butter fresh but still soft enough to spread. A two-piece stoneware crock does the trick: fill the bell-shaped top with butter, then immerse in the canister filled with cold water, et voilà! $15. Bianco Plus by Sarahband, 130 Avenue Rd., 416-929-9676.