Illustration by Brian Rea

The judging of the 2009 Ontario Wine Awards was double-circled on my calendar. It was the competition that would finally showcase the 2007 reds—wines from a harvest every Ontario winemaker claimed was the best in a generation, if not a lifetime, thanks to a long, warm growing season that produced a ripe and healthy crop. The hype machine has been whirring ever since. So as I sniffed and spat my way through a flight of 40 cabernet-merlot blends, then the merlots, the syrahs and pinot noirs, I was surprised to find myself rating many of the 2006s (a less ripe, rainy vintage) as highly as the 2007s—indeed, my top-scoring wine was Tawse 2006 Meritage.

It’s clear the stratospheric expectations for the 2007 vintage need to be tempered. They are impressive in ripeness, colour, depth and weight, but some seemed clumsily high in alcohol and gritty tannin; a few even had overripe, acetic fruit. It’s as if winemakers were pushing the ripeness too hard in response to years of criticism that Ontario reds are too light and green. That summer, several winemakers—sounding to all the world like Californians—had told me they were letting the grapes ripen longer in the abundant sunshine, which may, in retrospect, have been too long. The 2006s, on the other hand, although lighter, are more savoury, complex and refined, with the piquant acidity that gives Ontario wine its fresh feel. Every region develops its own distinct taste; this vintage shows that winemakers shouldn’t fight it. (If I want to drink California wine, I’ll buy California wine.) Here are the best of the 2006 and 2007 releases—very good, balanced wines that make the most of the Ontario style.

Tawse 2006 Meritage
$48.20 | NIAGARA PENINSULA | 91 points
When I tasted the 2006 Tawse cabs and merlots in barrel before they were blended, I was impressed by their depth and vibrancy, especially considering the rainy vintage. This final blend is extraordinary: tense yet elegant, exploding with berries, cedar, smoke, bitter choco­late and herbs. Its complexity and concentration help boost the rating.
Best 2011 to 2015. tawsewinery.ca.

UNDER $20

Grange of Prince Edward 2007
Trumpour’s Mill Gamay Noir
$15 | Prince Edward County | 87 points
The excellent conditions in 2007 added impressive colour to this gamay. Plum and blackcurrant aromas are framed by cinnamon. It’s medium weight, with a juicy tartness on the finish; age it another year. LCBO 615062

Henry of Pelham 2007 Baco Noir
$13.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 89 points
With ripe aromas of blackberry and beets, and leather and tobacco in the background, this old standby has reached new heights. A bit tart, with fine tannin. LCBO 270926

Inniskillin 2007 Cabernet Franc
$13.50 | Niagara Peninsula | 88 points
Bruce Nicholson’s deft winemaking has fashioned a charming cab franc with raspberry, herbs and tobacco. It’s velvety, but a touch sweet. Very good length. LCBO 317016

Pelee Island 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve
$14.95 | Pelee Island | 87 points
The ripeness of the 2007 vintage shows deep colour and black cherry and floral notes. It’s medium weight and plush, with a sour, vola­tile edge and fine tannin. Toasty oak and vanilla fill it out. LCBO 458521

OVER $20

Calamus 2006 Meritage
$21.76 | Niagara Peninsula | 87 points
In three tastings, one blind at the Ontario Wine Awards, this has performed like a minor bordeaux, with surprisingly firm, well-proportioned acidity and tannin. It’s a savoury wine, with tobacco, cedar and currant. Very good length. A typical Niagara red that doesn’t try to be anything else. hobbswines.com.

Fielding 2006 Meritage
$35.20 | Niagara Peninsula | 89 points
Fielding builds generous flavours into light, vibrant wines. This blend of cab sauvignon and merlot combines toasty, smoky, earthy and herbal flavours with currants and raspberry. Elegant, with fine tannin and a long finish. Best 2010 to 2014. fieldingwines.com.

Lailey 2007 Syrah
$25.20 | Niagara River | 89 points
The 2007 vintage produced Niagara’s best syrahs to date. Lailey’s showcases berry notes with pepper and smoked meat that’s typical of French Rhône syrahs. Very even and firm, but not austere; there’s solid fruit and well-integrated tannin. Will bloom with two more years. winerytohome.com.

Malivoire Old Vines Foch 2007
$31.95 | Ontario | 92 points
Hybrid marechal foch is a rarity in Niagara, and Malivoire’s Old Vines has long been the best example. The 2007 is bold and exciting. A great nose features smoke, clove, leather, blackberry and a wonderful wintergreen note. It’s full bodied, dense, elegant and tart. Remarkably, it has very light tannin—almost none perceptible. Best 2010 to 2015. malivoire.com.

Rosewood 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve
$40.20 | Twenty mile Bench | 90 points
The veteran winemaker Natalie Spytkowsky is winning medals for her new Beamsville winery. The 2007 pinot topped its class at the Canadian Wine Awards, and this reserve is even better, with aromatic fireworks of currants, cherry, herbs and oak spice. Great evenness and tension; a bit warm on the finish. Excellent length. rosewoodwine.com.

Trius 2007 Red
$21.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 89 points
Since 1989, Trius has been pioneering a Niagara take on Bordeaux-style red blends; its 2007 is among the best. The blackberry and tobacco nose is well combined with herbs and oak. Dense and elegant, with fine tannin. Best 2010 to 2015. Vintages. LCBO 303800