Quest
January 2008
Humble Pies
In search of the city’s finest tarte tatin By Signe Langford
Big apple: Didier's version is large enough for two
Image credit: My Yen Trung
The provenance of tarte tatin, a heartening rebuke to the mantra that haste makes waste, is as sweet as the pie itself. It was hunting season in the fall of 1898, and the Hotel Tatin in the Loire Valley was packed with hungry chasseurs. As the story goes, Stéphanie Tatin hurriedly assembled one of her famous desserts, but forgot the bottom crust. When she realized her mistake, desperation begat inspiration: she flipped the pie over and served it to rave reviews. A French classic was born. We’ve found three of the best this side of the Loire.
| The Place | The Goods | The Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Didier 1496 Yonge St., 416-925-8588 |
Large enough for two, the tart is surrounded by caramel sauce, topped with a quenelle of cinnaÂmon crème fraîche. $14. | The apples are too soft for purist perÂfection, but the buttery caramel and crisp pastry more than compensate. The cinnamon crème is a nice touch. |
| Provence Délices 12 Amelia St., 416-924-9901 |
An individual tartlet arrives free of trad flourishes—not even a dusting of icing sugar mars this deliciously clinical, minimalist specimen. $10. | With fat apple wedges—too hot to eat for quite some time—glazed with stick-to-the-roof-of-your-mouth toffee, it’s like a candy apple for grown-ups. Flaky, light-as-air puff crackles under the fork. |
| Gamelle 468 College St., 416-923-6254 |
A rich slice sits atop thinnish crème anglaise. The accompanying dollop of whipped cream foam is best suited to propping up the mint sprig. $7. | Promise kept: a buttery, light and crisp pastry holds tender but heartily thick apple wedges. Rich caramel finds its way into every crevice to sweet effect. Promise broken: it was served cold. |
