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September 2006

Hotel Harvest

Don’t feel like wrestling with a 15-pound turkey or squeezing 20 of your closest relatives into the dining room? Don’t worry; the city’s best hotel kitchens have got you covered this Thanksgiving By Sarah Grynpas


At Azure, chef Jonaton Lome uses fresh local produce to create such seasonal delicacies as mushroom ravioli, chestnut panade and pumpkin cheesecake. The meal begins with chicken consomée; the salad features fall lettuce with roasted pear, walnuts and blue cheese, in a brown butter vinaigrette. The centrepiece: a roulade of capon with homegrown autumn vegetables and potato purée. Wine pairings come with each course.
Where: 225 Front St. W.
How much: $65 per person, $89 with wine pairings.

Azure also holds its usual brunch—with a turkey day twist—on Thanksgiving Monday, from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. In addition to typical breakfast foods, artisanal cheeses, Ontario cured meat and house desserts, the restaurant features a hand-carved turkey with all the trimmings. The fall mood is evident in the less-traditional options as well: a Canadian pork loin with a fig and port demi-glaze.
Where: 225 Front St. W.
How much: $40 per adult, $15 per child.

Truffles puts an upscale spin on the trad meal. Diners choose between a cauliflower velouté and a riesling-poached speckled pear in a smoked sultana-and-maple vinaigrette. Forgo turkey in favour of beef tenderloin with wild mushrooms or sockeye river salmon. Desserts are classic: a choice between pumpkin pie or apple crumble. Two seatings on Monday, at 6 and 8 p.m.
Where: 21 Avenue Rd., 416-928-7331.
How much: $65 per person.

Annona makes it easy for diners torn between the traditional and the unexpected. Roast turkey with sage and onion stuffing, pan gravy and deep-dish pumpkin pie do a good impersonation of Grandma’s spread. The adventurous will be tempted by grilled Arctic char and apple beurre blanc, tarte tatin and chocolate ginger ice cream. Diners can choose between two apps, entrées and desserts. Available on Oct. 8 and 9.
Where: 4 Avenue Rd., 416-324-1567.
How much: $60 per person.

A crisp, clean aesthetic prevails at Hemispheres. Eschewing the typical heavy, homestyle fare, the menu features prosciutto-wrapped turkey tenderloin, with cranberry, sage and chestnut stuffing with wild chanterelles. A mixed salad with candied chestnuts and sun-dried fruit in a pomegranate vinaigrette accompanies. Pumpkin crème brulée tops things off. Available evenings from Oct. 6 to 9.
Where: 110 Chestnut St., 416-599-8000.
How much: $55 per person.

At Epic in the Royal York, chef Jean-Charles Dupoire combines comfort food with fine dining. Traditional fare such as hand-carved turkey, roasted parsnip purée and pumpkin pie join contemporary (but still homey) sweet corn soup with nutmeg and chili oil drizzle, red cabbage fondue and cinnamon-apple ice cream. Available from Oct. 5 to 9.
Where: 100 Front St. W.
How much: from $45 per person.

The Royal York also offers a complete classic Thanksgiving meal to go. Sides include traditional cranberry sauce and herbed new potatoes, but the stuffing—made with autumn vegetables and pears—is a step up from the customary white bread concoction. Dessert is a new twist on an old favourite: pumpkin pie with molasses whipped cream. Feed your soul, too: for every turkey purchased, the hotel will donate one to the Daily Bread Food Bank. Order by 5 p.m. on Oct. 5.
Where: pickup between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. on Oct. 8 and 9 at York’s Deli, 100 Front St. W.
How much: 3 kg turkey dinner for 4 people, $115; 5 kg turkey dinner for eight, $215; 7 kg turkey for 12, $295. If you’re on a budget, turkey, stuffing and jus for four is $85.


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