Honey Business
Move over, Billy Bee By Signe Langford
Sticky situation: Tomi-Kro's yogurt with Attiki honey
Image credit: Edward Pond
For more than 80 years, simple-sweet clover honey has been king. But a new generation of mono-floral honeys, produced by bees that gather nectar from a single type of blossom, is wooing city chefs with often subtle, sometimes striking colours and flavours—from perfumed or spicy to earthy and bitter. At Gallery Grill (7 Hart House Cir., 416-978-2445), Suzanne Baby simmers a compote of roasted apricots and Niagara icewine with fragrant Moroccan orange blossom honey, an exclusive—and delicious—stash courtesy of her Moroccan sous-chef, Hassan Elamrani. Laura Prentice of Tomi-Kro (1214 Queen St. E., 416-463-6677) drizzles Greek Attiki honey—the nectar gathered from wild thyme—over a rustic dish of pressed yogurt with toasted pine nuts, sour cherry preserves and a drop of orange blossom water. Crush’s David Gaunt (455 King St. W., 416-977-1234) enhances the sweetness of humble roasted root vegetables—parsnip, carrot, turnip and parsley root—by glazing them with the delicately perfumed, yellow New Zealand nodding thistle honey. Home cooks can find mono-floral honeys at Honey World (St. Lawrence Market, 93 Front St. E., 416-214-0101), home of what may be the best selection in Canada.
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