High/Low
Vintage Rolls
Variations on the thousand-year-old wrap By Bruce Geddes
On the left: The Grill at Scaramouche; On the right: Pearl Court
Image credit: Finn O'Hara
This is one food you can just as easily have at the beginning of the evening (a prelude to a much larger Asian feast) as at the end (a tasty wee-hours capper to a long night out). The convenience of spring rolls often puts them in the fast food category, but their versatility means that certain interpretations on the theme should be enjoyed slowly, with purpose. There are countless “traditional” versions, a geographically diverse, multi-branched family tree dating back to the Tang dynasty (AD 618–907). At that time, they were filled with cooked spring vegetables and served at celebrations commemorating the planting of the new year’s corn. The key to their lasting appeal, however, is not a devotion to any particular ingredient but the shell that transforms (with the help of hot oil) from a flaccid sheet of dough to a golden, crisp and flaky crust that virtually explodes on contact. That said, it is what’s on the inside that distinguishes one spring roll from another.
At The Grill at Scaramouche (1 Benvenuto Pl., 416-961-8011), chunks of slow-cooked duck confit are mixed with slices of shiitake mushroom before being rolled in the standard wrapper. A side of slaw made with pickled veggies adds acidity to the savoury rolls, while a deep red–purple plum sauce provides a sweet finish.
At Pearl Court (633 Gerrard St. E., 416-463-8778), the approach is more straightforward. Nuggets of ground pork are the only identifiable ingredient in these rolls. The simplicity does not detract from the pleasure. Plum sauce is also the preferred accompaniment, albeit this time in the form of sweet yellow goo squeezed from small packets.
TEST Originally published May 2006
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Vintage Rolls
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