The low-lying wild blueberry bush (vaccinium angustifolium) is one of the few berry species native to North America. Early explorers noted them on their expeditions, and in 1615, Samuel de Champlain saw Indians harvesting them near Georgian Bay. Today, Ontario campers like to incorporate wild blueberries into campfire pancakes. But in their fleeting summertime moment, the tiny fruit shine no brighter than in blueberry pie.

In creating her seasonal tarts at Pangaea (1221 Bay St., 416-920-2323), pastry chef Joanne Yolles reduces fresh Ontario wilds to an intense syrup, then adds another whack to the glaze, for blueberry-times-two. She mounts this sweet collusion on vanilla pastry cream, which in turn has been smoothed atop a shatteringly crisp shortbread crust. A wee scoop of raspberry sorbet, a quenelle of whipped cream, loops of crème anglaise and raspberry syrup complete the stunning assemblage. “It’s my son’s all-time favourite dessert,” says the pastry queen, “but I only make it during summer.” Get yours now. When September’s autumnal winds blow in, these blue beauties—and tarts—will disappear.

Sweet Tooth Desserts Café (508 Danforth Ave., 416-778-8800) is a charming new shop where wild blueberries can be found in homemade cheesecakes, coffee cakes, tarts and fruit pies. A mile-high wedge of wild blueberry pie sports an old-time lattice topper (crumble top also available). The filling could be a little less viscous, but it bursts with berry goodness.